There be sharks...

 I have been told that the snorkeling around phi phi is amazing and that was the major impetus to book today's boat trip. That coupled with it is the only realistic way to see Maya beach and the other smaller islands seemed the best option for both.  I booked a private boat, just me and Crispy, as that gave us the option to make our own itinerary. Group tours reduce the cost but take away the freedom to choose what the trip involves.

We were picked up by motorcycle taxi at 9am from a little tour booth adjacent to our lodgings and taken back to the beach that we first arrived at. Our long tail boat and skipper were ready and waiting for us. A brief hello and we waded out and climbed aboard our transport for the day. The long tails are incredible creations. Wooden traditional fishing boats with a huge diesel engine attached to a prop fitted at the stern. The skill with which the skippers manoeuvre these fast little vessels needs to be seen to be appreciated. 

Once aboard we put to sea to begin our little day trip. He sped along the coast past phi phi town and out to the islands that lie just off the coast. He navigated the boat through tight rocks into some amazing caverns and coves. The scenery was breathtaking.

After cruising down the coast in and out of tiny inlets he arrived at the foot of a tall cliff. The sea was rough here and the boat was rocking and swaying with the swell. He stopped the engine and said to us "swim here, sharks".

Crispy is a strong swimmer but is not a fan of deep water neither is she fully comfortable snorkeling. She decided to give the sharks a miss. The skipper handed me a mask and snorkel and again said " you swim... Sharks". Well the day was for new adventures so I donned the gear and jumped into the water. The sea felt more rough once I was actually in it with the waves buffering the cliffs and it was deep. I pulled down the mask and put my face in the water. It was difficult as the water kept going over the snorkel but I steadied myself and swam. At first all I could see was the rocky submerged cliff face but as I looked I could see the sharks. Four black tipped reef sharks. Each about 5 feet long were swimming below me.

I have never swam with shark before and with being in such deep water it was at first a little unnerving. The sharks glided through the water just a few feet below me with a complete disinterest. It was an amazing experience and one I shall treasure. I swam with, or alongside, these masters of the deep until the waves got the better of me and I headed back to the boat. I have no underwater camera but it's a sight I won't forget. 

From the sharks we continued our journey around the numerous islands. The skipper pulled into another breathtaking cove and again we swam. Together this time.  The water was much calmer here but to be honest I didn't see much marine life. Lots of little fish but nothing amazing. The next stop was Maya Cove. The setting of the film "the beach" that we had been keen to see. The place was very busy with dozens of small boats trying to land their passengers on a very small floating quay. It was here that the skippers skill navigating the long tail came into its own. 

I mentioned before that you are not allowed to swim here as it is a protected marine zone and no boats are allowed inside the cove. Instead you are dropped off at an adjacent cove and walk a short distance into the main cove itself. We knew it would be fantastic but it exceeded our expectations. It truly is the most beautiful place we have seen. Even with the crowds it felt special. A magical natural wonder that easily competes with all others we have seen. Again the pictures do not do it justice. Go and see it for yourselves. It's incredible. 

After an hour the skipper again picked us up from the quay and took us just outside the cove over a reef. Again Crispy didn't swim as it was deep but I snorkeled over the coral reef. I have seen programmes on TV about coral reefs and this was just as I expected. Coral of different amazing shapes and colours. Fish of every colour of the rainbow.  Cuttlefish gliding through the rocks. Little orange nemos darting in and out of the coral fronds. Big bright yellow angel fish that flock around your mask. An explosion of colour and diversity. I loved it  crispy was on the boat feeding shoals of surface fish. I decided there and then that this holiday I'm going to teach her to snorkel more confidently as I'm sure that there will be opportunities like this during our travels through these islands. It's just too good to miss.

After this stop we again continued around the islands to our last stop. Monkey beach.

Oh good, my favourite thinks I.

We didn't spend much time here as we have seen more than enough monkeys in the past. After that it was a short sail home.

After a bite to eat we again walked to the beach we visited yesterday. We just relaxed on the sands and read our books for a couple of hours in the evening sunshine. It has been an amazing day. 

Tomorrow is an early start. Crispy is grumbling already about having to get up early but we need a long tail at 7. 30 to get us back to Phi Phi town to catch the speedboat to our next island. Kho Jum. Our bags are packed and we are ready to move on.It will be a struggle to wrench her from her pit but I'm hoping  the promise of her favourite potato based  snack will do the trick.

We have both loved our time on Phi Phi. It has been everything we expected and more.

If the rest of the trip proves half as good then we will not be disappointed.

Bare and Crispy signing off Phi Phi island. Thailand