Thursday, 18 January 2024

Onto Kho Muk, or Mook or whaver it is

 We set off this morning from our little island paradise for our next island destination, Kho Muk. The spelling varies from Muk to Mook depending which map your looking at. The longtail was due to arrive at our beach at 10:40 to transport us to the pier to swap onto the speedboat for our short transfer to Mum. As it was low tide the longtail couldn't get close in so we waded through the surf and climbed aboard. It was busy with people moving on to various islands and some back to the mainland for their flights home. Thankfully we have a long time yet before we have to consider returning to Phuket for our flight back to Crispy HQ on the bleak hill. We are still heading south so moving away from the mainland. Eventually this will involve a long ferry ride but it's no hardship.

As we were packing our Matilda's crispy spotted a snake outside our room. A bright green and yellow thing about 2 feet long. I think she meant to say " excuse me Peter, don't mean to interrupt, but there is a snake making its way directly towards me". It came out as " Arggghhhhhhhhhhhhh" in a not very lady like way. A young lady who was tending the gardens sauntered across and nonchalantly bashed it with her broom. It shot off and climbed a nearby coconut tree looking very sorry for itself. I couldn't get a pic but include a stock photo here for ref. It was a golden tree snake. Non venomous but liable to bite if threatened. 

(Golden tree snake, not my pic)


(The view for breakfast)

(The longboat transfer for the speed boat)

The longboat took us to the small pier and we boarded our speedboat to Kho Muk. A short 25 minute journey saw us pulling into the pier. Kho Muk is another small island but is a little busier. More of a fishing village that has seized upon tourism and has expanded as more people came. It's very quaint and a little basic but very laid back. It's just like the Thailand we loved but with the benefit of WiFi. It has not yet become part of the package tour trail and as will suit us fine. 

We have been spoilt with Kho Ngai and it's going to take a day or two to get back in the swing of things.






(Arriving in Kho Muk)

I have a few "activities" planned here to keep Dear old Crispy busy during our stay. Apart from the jungle trek, swimming and snorkeling with snakes she's been very sedentary. It's not good for a lady in her gentle years. I also need to arrange onwards travel to our next island which might prove difficult as it's further south than I first intended to go. I'm sure we will be able to sort something out. We haven't failed yet.

I think this travelling thing is having an effect on both of us. The latest pics are a little alarming but I think we are both looking good as aging hippies. 



The major reason to detour to Kho Muk was the emerald cave. A spectacular beach that is only reachable by swimming through a 150 foot cave in total darkness. It looks fantastic but after speaking to fellow travellers that have been here they tell us that it gets so busy with boat tours that it's beauty is lost in the crowd. I have found us a boatman that is prepared to take us there at 7 in the morning. He assures us at this time we will have the beach to ourselves for at least an hour before the tour groups arrive. I hope so. It looks mind blowing amazing. After the cave I have asked the boat guy to take us to Kho Kradan for the day to the best snorkeling spots and a spot of tiffin. 

Kho Kradan is similar to Kho Ngai but is a playground of the rich and is very expensive to stay there. I looked for accomodation to stay there but it was booked solid. We have his private services for the  day so it should be amazing. We will see. Crispy is looking forward to getting up close and personal with sea snakes, giant cuttle fish and the odd jelly fish. 

Kho Muk is also home to a huge population of sea turtles and Durong. The Durong are endemic to this part of the Andaman sea and as yet we have never seen one. They are similar to the manatee of the Americas. The only difference  is that a Durong has a fluked tail like a whale rather than the flipper type tail of a  manatee. The locals call them sea cows. 

The harbour here in Muk is a popular sighting spot for these elusive creatures. Before dinner we walked to the pier at high tide in the hope of seeing one. Our luck wasn't in today but we did see many turtle from the watchtower that they have built for this purpose. At some point we are going to take a kayak out at high tide and try to swim with the Durong If we are lucky enough to encounter them. The harbour isn't great for swimming as it's home to a lot of stingrays. A local guy told me that in the last 9 month over 90 people have been got by these stingy little fish. Mostly from putting there feet down on the sandy bottom. The sting is incredibly painful and can result in a permanent loss of feeling in the affected part. I suppose that if you don't put your feet down then you should be ok. We will see....



( Giant turtle, with my poor quality phone camera)
(The harbour from the watchtower)


(The local service station)

Bare and Crispy, signing off, Kho Muk, Thailand

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