The sea is a cruel mistress as we found out to our peril. Today was kayak day. The plan was to pick our way along the west of the island calling at a few isolated beaches until we arrived at the east coast to hopefully swim with turtles and the Dugong. All went well initially. Breakfast and a rest before mounting our water bourne transport for our trip. We pushed of from the shore at 10 am and paddled to the little island just off the coast for a touch of snorkelling. It was just past high tide and the going should have been easy. It was not and this should of given me fair warning. Despite our best efforts in shallow water to going was hard. There were so many riptides that it was difficult to maintain a steady course. Unthwarted we headed south and although the water appeared calm the current was strong. We stopped and beached our plastic craft at a couple of beaches and had a great time lying on the sand and swimming in the surf.
At cucumber beach we partook in a little skinny dipping. It's very remote with no access from the landside and as we were the only craft on the water it was very private.
From there we set off to round the headland towards Dugong point,where we were yesterday, to try and swim with the turtles and hopefully a Dugong. The sea became more choppy as we gained open water but the tides were strong. It was incredibly difficult going. A distance that would normally take an hour to paddle turned into three. It wasn't easy or pleasant. Plus the rocks were showing through the surf making headway difficult. Just before Dugong point the waves built up. Crashing over the submerged rocks. We started to get tossed about in the current. Crispy's biggest fear is drowning and she wasn't enjoying it. Plus the skies had cleared and the sun was intense. Particularly on the water.
We decided to turn back. Just before the headland as we were making steady if difficult progress we were hit by a rogue wave. It was the worse possible place as there was no beach to head for but deep water and sharp rocks. In the blink of an eye we were capsized. The boat, now upturned, was being tossed in the waves. Crispy was a stalwart and didn't panic. She kept her calm and more importantly kept hold of the paddles (it was a hire boat and the loss of equipment would have been expensive). With great difficulty we coaxed our sinking kayak, which was taking on water all the time, to a small rocky beach. The stones were really sharp and we both suffered minor cuts to our feet in the rough water. On the beach we managed to bail our stricken craft and regain ourselves. It took great courage on Crispy's part to get back in the boat and carry on. I am so very proud of her. It took an eternity to paddle our little craft all the way back to our landing spot at the resort. We have swam, snorkelled and kayaked in many tropical seas but the waters around here are very deceiving. It was a difficult experience and I blame myself for putting crispy through it. I should have known from our original difficulty getting to the island that it was not going to be easy. The only redeeming factor is that she kept hold of the paddles and saved us the additional cost of lost equipment. She's a trooper.
All was well and we beached without further incident other than a little sunburn and scratched feet.
It's our last night in Libong and tomorrow we strike out for our last island. Kho Lipe.
I will arrange the motorbike taxi in the morning. The speed boat leaves Libong at 14:45 so we will have plenty time.
Kho Lipe is a busy island popular with tourists. It might prove a bit of a culture shock after our remote island experiences.
I'm sure it will be amazing. I just hope Crispy hasn't got used to the 5 star lifestyle
Bare and Crispy signing off Kho Libong
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