Back where we started.

 Well we are back in Phuket, where we started our amazing adventure, in readiness for our return flights to Blighty and Crispy HQ. This time we are staying in a very nice hotel on Siri Island instead of the Old Town itself. It's not really an island but a part of Phuket that is separated  from the main island by a tidal river. I always like to give Dear old Crispy a treat with our final lodgings and this is a very nice quiet resort Our room is overlooking the main pool but we have our own pool in our private courtyard. It's very posh and Crispy loves it.

I don't think there will be much adventuring while we are here. It's a couple of days to chill in the pool, relax and prepare for the journey home. Crispy has been a busy girl on this trip and deserves a rest before going back to work. 

This morning was an early start to get to Pattaya beach on Kho Lipe to board our speed boat north. We would have preferred a slow boat ferry but there have been none operating for the past several years. The speed boats are fast but very uncomfortable. They power through the waves and bounce, crash and list at every turn. The journey took a total of 5 hours but there were no delays and we got a 45 minute break from the journey in Kho Lanta before continuing to Phuket.  

A quick taxi ride saw us settled in the lodgings where we spent a couple of hours in our private plunge pool before going onto the Sunday night market to eat. 

The major market here is Naka market

and only operates at a weekend. As such we missed it when we were here a month ago. It was huge and Crispy had designs on spending our hard earned bahts. Fortunately there was nothing that tickled her fancy so we ate and watched some local bands that were performing in the food court. The oldest performer looked about 12 but they were very good. We had several cheeky drinks and spent a very pleasant couple of hours  before grabbing a taxi back to the hotel.

This has been an amazing trip and Crispy, as always, says it has been the best yet. She's a star and always says the most recent trip is the best we have ever done. I must admit we have both really enjoyed it. It has been all beach and islands with quite a few adventures along the way ranging from cuddling tigers, riding elephants. Swimming with sharks and snorkelling over beautiful coral reefs. Not to mention getting up close with Dugong and venomous sea snakes. As always we have met and been privileged to spend time in the company of some wonderful people. These transient meetings always add depth to our travels and we thank them all for their company. However brief .

It has been a full month of island hopping and we have not done that for a long time. It seems Crispy has missed it so next January we will almost certainly be headed for Borneo, Sarawak and Saba. I have to keep the old girl happy.  

In summary it is hard to choose which has been the best island for us. They have all been amazing in their own particular way. From the busy islands of Phi Phi and Lipe to the more remote and unspoilt of Jum and Ngai each has been perfect.  If I had to recommend one I would renage and say "see them all".

To summarise our opinion if you decide to come and give it a go. 

Phuket

. Busy and vibrant with a lot of attractions to see and loads of places to stay. I can't comment on the other side of the island that contains the beaches and resorts as we haven't been there. Yet..... A great place to kick off from to get to the islands as it's connected either by ferry or speedboat to most places. It would make a good introduction to South East Asia if you have never been before. Plus the flights are cheaper from the UK than Krabi or Bangkok which are your other options. .

Kho Phi Phi

A picture postcard tropical island close to some amazing places like Maya Cove. Fantastic crystal clear waters perfect for snorkelling and swimming (with sharks if your so inclined) It's made out as a party island and it is very busy but as soon as you move away from Phi Phi town it is quiet, laid back and very rustic. It's the place that most reminded us of our travels here 25 years ago. Nothing could persuade me to stay in the centre here but I'd go back to the west or north of the island tomorrow. Plus it's only 45 minutes from Phuket. 

Kho Jum

A very quiet island with beautiful beaches and scenery. A true unspoilt island that hasn't changed yet. Not a great deal to see or do but perfect for relaxing and taking in the island life. Highly recommended we loved it here. 

Kho Lanta. 

A very busy island that is perfect as a staging post. I don't think it has adapted well to tourism and seems a little lost. The island is beautiful and the areas away from the busy western side are incredible. There are some of the best mangrove forests and swamps we have seen and we loved the sea cave kayaking. Crispy's high spot was having a monkey SIT, not sh*t,  on her head. She's easily pleased bless her. Not our kind of place and nowhere near as laid back as the other islands but we are glad we visited.

Kho Ngai

Quiet peaceful and feels remote. No infrastructure to keep you amused but I think our favourite. A true island paradise and perfect for relaxing. The down side if it is a downside is that there are lots of things that want to bite you. I think it was worth the risk.

Kho Muk

A really nice mix between quiet and vibrant. The perfect island that caters for all visitors. Beautiful and rustic yet having everything you need. I think this was Crispy's perfect island. Don't get me wrong there are no happy hour bars or nightclubs here. Just a couple of small restaurants and some tiny shops for essential items. Perfect and is home to the Dugong. 

Kho Libong

A very quiet island that has no tourism other than a couple of high end resorts. It's still like Kho Jum a working fishing community. The seeds of development are there but I think it's going to be while before this island succumbs to mass tourism. It's stunningly beautiful and I hope it doesn't change. Crispy will remember it as the place we were shipwrecked in high seas but that was my fault not the islands. 

Kho Lipe

We were very surprised by Kho Lipe. Everyone we spoke to on the way south told us it was very busy with visitors. It was but I think in a good way. The island is tiny and to be fair there is one small street near the main beach that was busy. But it was holiday busy and had a fantastic atmosphere. The rest of the island is amazing. Being a long way from any mainland the water is fantastic. This has been our best snorkeling and was even better than Kho Kradan near Kho Muk.  In retrospect I wish we had stayed another day here and cut our time in Phuket. Hey Ho you live and learn. Like the majority of the islands we would definitely return but maybe from the Malay side next time.

Unless anything interesting happens the blob for this adventure will end here as there will be nothing to report other than pool, rest and sunbathing. I'm saying that secure in the knowledge that after one day resting  she will be bored senseless and yearning a little distraction. I have a couple of ideas in mind.

We are not too upset it is nearly over as we have a busy year ahead. In eight weeks time we set off to explore the wonders of Andalucia. A trip around the ancient cities of Granada, Seville, Cordoba and Málaga. Completely different to what we have just done but no doubt fantastic in its own way. In June we are going on pilgrimage along the Santiago de Compostela. A walk of 300 km in just less than 3 weeks from Porto in Portugal to Santiago in Northern Spain. The actual walk takes only 15 days but we may spend a little time exploring Portugal while we are there. It seems rude not to. I have a few activities in mind already to keep Crispy busy.

After that we are undecided but I'm sure something will present itself to spur us to waltz our Matilda's once more before winter returns.

Bare and Crispy signing off where we began in Phuket.  Thailand.

Kho Lipe

 It had been a long day travelling. The next morning after sleeping the sleep of the blessed we awoke refreshed. It was dark when we got here so we were not quite sure what awaited us. We have once again hit the jackpot. It's a gorgeous little collection of wooden chalets on a steep hillside running down to a glorious quiet beach. The view from our balcony would put any self respecting post card to shame.

A series of wooden steps run down from our chalet directly to the hotel bar and restaurant.  The beach is very pretty and directly below us is one of the recommended reefs for swimming and snorkeling. The reef isn't huge but is full of coral and marine life.

This is the first of the islands we have visited after Phuket that has "shops" other than the occasional 7 11. The 7 11 is the Asian equivalent of the Spar in Europe and can often be lifesavers for essential travel requirements but it's offerings are usually sparse at best.. Crispy needed to restock her supply of "products" and we desperately needed some more sun cream. As such our first job was to walk the 15 minutes across the island to purchase said supplies. Once the shopping trip was completed we headed back to our lodgings and went on the beach. Swimming, lounging and snorkeling on the reef.

Early evening we again made our way to walking street to eat and partake of a few beers. This is the first place that has a fair number of places to eat and real bars. It definitely feels like a holiday town and it's busy but feels very comfortable and relaxed.

It is different from what we are used to over the past few weeks but surprisingly a very pleasant change. We ate well on tom yum and settled in a really cool bar. Some chairs and tables but mostly just cushions and pillows.  After we had had our fill we got a motorcycle taxi back to the hotel. 

 The previous night I had arranged a long tail to take us on a tour of the local islands and a stop at the best snorkeling spots.  After breakfast oor skipper picked us up from the beach and once more we were on the water. I think on average this trip we have spent more time afloat than on land. 

The skipper took us around the islands and as promised stopped at the best spots for snorkeling. The first spot was again deep water and very choppy. The snorkeling was good at the foot of a sea cliff but hard going in the rough sea. There were plenty of fish and coral but it was deep so difficult to see in the rough water. The next stop was better. A large reef in clearer water but full of small jelly fish. Thousands of them. We swam and crispy was stung several times so climbed out and waited for me on the boat. I was surrounded by them but never felt them sting once. I guess they only like girls. The reef was extensive and was home to all manner of fish and marine life. The coral was healthy and it was interesting.

The third spot was the best. Shallow, crystal clear water and thousands of fish. It was even better than the reef off Kho Kradan. Beautiful coral of every colour and fish so vibrant they looked like a toddler had painted them. Every colour and hue in every shape and size you could imagine. We swam here for ages and Dear old Crispy loved it. Once again I am so pleased that she has mastered snorkeling and can see what wonders lie beneath the waves. She is an expert now and loves it even more than me.

We had been hoping that we would get to see clown fish whilst we were here. Nemo as it is now better known. Here they were everywhere. Every coral had the tiny orange and white Nemos darting between their swaying fronds. We were so pleased to have met them. We have been incredibly lucky in so much as we have seen everything that was on our list. We must be in the good books of the big guy upstairs.

After returning from our trip we once more showered and went back into town for tea. Once repeat we again went into the bar we found last night. We have an early speedboat ride in the morning. 5 hours back to Phuket via Kho Lanta so we only had a few drinks. The ride is going to be hard work with a clear head let alone feeling fragile. We did however meet a lovely young German couple who are travelling around the islands, Marco and Candy. We swopped tails of adventures past and I probably bored them senseless but it was a lovely couple of hours.  

Early to bed in readiness for another and final long days travelling prior to our flight home. 

Bare and Crispy signing off, Kho Lipe , Thailand.

Feck! That was a long day

 It was our last day on Kho Libong and we have loved it here. It was a treat for dear old Crispy and she has thoroughly enjoyed it. Even the trauma of the kayak will fade into a happy memory. The Tigerline speed boat was booked for 14:45 but to save any hanging around at the hotel we took a motorcycle taxi to the pier at 11:30 after breakfast. 

Early I agree but it seemed better to get across the island and spend a couple of hours watching the boats coming and going rather than hang about at the hotel. The time passed quickly and 14:45 came and went. The speedboat was delayed and we had another 3 hours wait before it eventually came into view. 

Once it was here we quickly boarded and set off for the 2 hour crossing to Kho Lipe. The sea was rough, very rough and the high powered boat ploughed it's way across open ocean. Bouncing and crashing through the waves. It was like being in a washing machine. The boat leaving the water and crashing down with a jolt every few seconds. Listing left and right against the current. It was not the most sedate of crossings by any means. Plus the windows are above seat height so it's impossible to orientated yourselves.

We got talking ( over the roar of the four outboard engines) to a young British couple who now live in southern Spain. She is a private chef and he works as a tour guide for American students doing the grand tour through Andalucia. Handy thinks I as in nine weeks time we too will be touring the cities of Granada, Cordoba and Seville on a little 2 week trip to Espania. He has given me his number and asked me to contact him when we get to Granada. He will be our free private guide. 

Eventually we arrived at Koh Lipe. 3 hours later than expected. The speedboats only operate in daylight hours and as such don't have any internal lights. We alighted onto the beach in total darkness with the aid of torches. Pattaya beach was busy. Neon lights and lots of tourists patrolling walking street.

Every Asian resort town has a walking street. Either called walking street or bar street. I mentioned the one in old Phuket when we were there.  This one was manic. Shops, bars, restaurants all full of the regular tourist tat. It was a shock after our quiet island life over the past 3 weeks. Our lodgings are on the north of the island at sunset beach so I knew it would be a lot quieter. Koh Lipe is the last of the islands we will visit on this trip before heading back north to Phuket in readiness for the flight home. I thought it important to see it as it completes our tour of every island in the gulf of Thailand. Plus being far out to sea it has some of the best snorkeling and clearest water of all the Andaman and Trang  islands.

We are tired after a very long day travelling. It should have been a breeze but that's travelling for you. 

We got to our lodgings after a short motorcycle taxi trip and found our room. A little chalet on jungle covered hills overlooking a cute little sandy bay. It looks really rustic, nice and quiet so will suit our needs. Tomorrow is going to be a chill day while I try to sort out onward transport. I know there is a speedboat but don't relish the thoughts of a 5 hour crossing if it is going to be anything like today's. I'm hoping there is a slow boat where we could sit on deck and proceed at a more leisurely  pace. Plus I need to  arrange a full days snorkelling to keep Crispy occupied while we are here.

Early to bed 

Bare and Crispy signing off, Kho Lipe, Thailand

For those in peril on the sea

 The sea is a cruel mistress as we found out to our peril. Today was kayak day. The plan was to pick our way along the west of the island calling at a few isolated beaches until we arrived at the east coast to hopefully swim with turtles and the Dugong. All went well initially. Breakfast and a rest before mounting our water bourne transport for our trip. We pushed of from the shore at 10 am and paddled to the little island just off the coast for a touch of snorkelling. It was just past high tide and the going should have been easy. It was not and this should of given me fair warning. Despite our best efforts in shallow water to going was hard. There were so many riptides that it was difficult to maintain a steady course. Unthwarted we headed south and although the water appeared calm the current was strong. We stopped and beached our plastic craft at a couple of beaches and had a great time lying on the sand and swimming in the surf. 

( Our kayak, now named the Medusa)

At cucumber beach we partook in a little skinny dipping. It's very remote with no access from the landside and as we were the only craft on the water it was very private.

From there we set off to round the headland towards Dugong point,where we were yesterday, to try and swim with the turtles and hopefully a Dugong. The sea became more choppy as we gained open water but the tides were strong. It was incredibly difficult going. A distance that would normally take an hour to paddle turned into three. It wasn't easy or pleasant. Plus the rocks were showing through the surf making headway difficult. Just before Dugong point the waves built up. Crashing over the submerged rocks. We started to get tossed about in the current. Crispy's biggest fear is drowning and she wasn't enjoying it. Plus the skies had cleared and the sun was intense. Particularly on the water.

We decided to turn back. Just before the headland as we were making steady if difficult progress we were hit by a rogue wave. It was the worse possible place as there was no beach to head for but deep water and sharp rocks. In the blink of an eye we were capsized.  The boat, now upturned, was being tossed in the waves. Crispy was a stalwart and didn't panic. She kept her calm and more importantly kept hold of the paddles (it was a hire boat and the loss of equipment would have been expensive). With great difficulty we coaxed our sinking kayak, which was taking on water all the time, to a small rocky beach. The stones were really sharp and we both suffered minor cuts to our feet in the rough water.  On the beach we managed to bail our stricken craft and regain ourselves. It took great courage on Crispy's part to get back in the boat and carry on. I am so very proud of her.  It took an eternity to paddle our little craft all the way back to our landing spot at the resort. We have swam, snorkelled and kayaked in many tropical seas but the waters around here are very deceiving. It was a difficult experience and I blame myself for putting crispy through it. I should have known from our original difficulty getting to the island that it was not going to be easy.  The only redeeming factor is that she kept hold of the paddles and saved us the additional cost of lost equipment. She's a trooper.

All was well and we beached without further incident other than a little sunburn and scratched feet.

It's our last night in Libong and tomorrow we strike out for our last island. Kho Lipe.

I will arrange the motorbike taxi in the morning. The speed boat leaves Libong at 14:45 so we will have plenty time.

Kho Lipe is a busy island popular with tourists. It might prove a bit of a culture shock after our remote island experiences. 

I'm sure it will be amazing. I just hope Crispy hasn't got used to the 5 star lifestyle

Bare and Crispy signing off Kho Libong

Normal service is resumed.

 Crispy has had a fantastic birthday. She loves the high life at this resort and is treated like the queen. This is no more than she deserves. However we have been quite sedentary the past few days with not a lot of adventuring going on. Today was our chance to explore the island. The hotel has courtesy bicycles and kayaks for use by the guests and I thought it would be rude not to make use of them. Kho Libong is larger than most of the places we have visited but the northern part is mostly jungle. This really leaves only the southern part to explore without more jungle trekking and I think she has done her share of that so far. Bicycles seemed a great way to facilitate this. Plus today was forecast to be a little overcast again so it shouldn't have been to hot for some gentle exercise. The temperature was only forecast to be around 29 degrees. On average it has been in the mid thirties.  I had read that there is a fisherman's village and Dugong look out point on the opposite side of the island so made this our goal for the day.  After breakfast ( which is included in the room rate) we took bicycles and set off to explore. 

I know there are giant monitor lizards here and we dearly wanted to come across one. They are not as big as the Komodo Dragon in the Galapagos so won't take a small child for lunch but will happily take chicken or small dog. They are not aggressive but will attack if threatened or startled so there was no real problem if we encountered one. 

We cycled to the village. It was very quaint and apart from a few isolated home stays there was no evidence of tourism. It was great to see an authentic fishing community.

We cycled down the pier to the lookout tower and spent a while looking for turtle and Dugong but to no avail. I still have not given up hope that we will get to swim with one when we kayak tomorrow. 

I had also read that there is a natural look out point that is reached via a series of caves inside a large rock pinnacle that overlooks the bay. It was clearly visible from the pier so we decided to try and scale it. Crispy gave me one of her looks that I know by experience means " your having a feckin laugh" but agreed to give it a go.

We cycled down a small road and eventually came to a sign directing us to the look out point. There were monkey here but they were very shy as they have not yet learned that tourists mean food. At sight of us sweating on our bikes they took off into the deeper jungle. Again this suited me.

At the lookout point there was a little Thai guy sat in a government office with a sign informing us that it would cost 400 Baht each to climb through the caves. That is really expensive and about the same cost as a very expensive meal for two including drinks. I protested that I thought that really was expensive and eventually he agreed to allow us both in for 300 Baht. A much more realistic figure. There was no sign of any other people there so as he didn't give us a ticket I think the Baht went straight into his back pocket. It suited me and I didn't complain.

The caves wind there way up inside the rock and are traversed by staircases and ropeways. It was hard going as the skies had cleared and even in the dark recess of the caves it was incredibly hot. Crispy was a trooper and with only the minimal of grumbling and cussing made her way to the top. She was wearing a little dress that looked wonderful but wasn't the attire of choice for extreme potholing.

At the top we were both hot and tired. We had exhausted our water supplies and were desperate for more. 

We got comfy at the summit and gazed over the sea but apart from a few turtle didn't spot anything else. We made our way back down the caves, which was even harder than going up, bid out fair wells to the ticket guy and set off on our trusty bicycles. The plan was to continue onto a secluded beach but we were desperate for fluids. We came across a little shop but the ticket guy had taken all my small change and the lady in the shop didn't have enough cash to give change on the larger notes we had. We had no choice but to return to the resort before we dehydrated. 

A quick drink and straight into the sea for a swim. Refreshed we read our books before showering and out for dinner.. 

Next door to our resort is one of only two beach bars on the island. We went there for a drink before dining at the resort. The bar man was great and helped  to arrange a motorcycle taxi to the pier for our onward travels in a couple of days time. We will definitely call here again after our kayaking tomorrow.

Crispy has been a trooper today and is now settled in her pit with a bottle of pop. I'm afraid there are no crisps on the island other than seaweed flavour and she's not a fan.

Bare and Crispy signing off, Kho Libong, Thailand