We were tired last night. Very tired and it didn't take long to get to sleep. The first day is always the hardest but it was a good learning curve in respect of terrain. Distance and our overall condition. Yesterdays walk was the longest distance we will cover in a single day. The remainder average between 20 and 25 km Per section. Today has been a total distance of 25.7km. Again mostly flat along boardwalk, minor roads and pavement. It's the pavement that is the worst. They are all made from the little granite cobblestones and over any distance they are really uncomfortable. The route today mostly followed the Ocean but in stages led inland over raised walkways and forest tracks.
It had forecast a cloudy day with temperatures in the low 20,s. In fact it was blue sky all day with temperatures averaging 29. Hot. Very hot and as such hard work covering these kind of distances. We left our lovely little house at 9am and set off onto the Camino via the local Lidl supermarket. The pastries are cheap as chips and make for an inexpensive breakfast and lunch. Crispy, although unable to eat the pastries, can always find something gluten free that will sustain her through the day. In Asia we always make a beeline for the 7-11 stores. In Europe its Spa or Lidl. All of these are the cost conscious travellers best friend.
From Lidl we got onto the Camino and followed the coastal route to the town of Povoa de Varzim. A seaside town not unlike Cleveleys or Blackpool but without the fish and chip shops or arcades. They are only just setting up the beach huts and summer paraphanalia as the tourist season in northern Portugal is really short. July to September. As such these coastal towns are still really quiet. Apart from pilgrims there are not many visitors.
After Varzim there is a very long section Over boardwalk till you arrive at Apulia with nowhere to get any supplies. Not even water fountains to refill your water bottles. It's pretty and quiet but once again the only people you meet are pilgrims. A few people we met were staying in Apulia overnight rather than push onto Esposenda like us. I think we made the right decision as although further there are more food and board options available in Esposenda. Apulia is bit of a one horse town and not much to see or do. We stopped for a drink before moving on and the only place we could find, that was close to the camino, was the Portuguese equivalent of Sam's bar. We were entertained by the barmaid very vocally refusing to serve alcohol to a local lush who had obviously had enough already. It past 10 mins and took our minds off our now aching bodies.
From Apulia it was only 6 more km to our lodgings. A great little basic guest house overlooking the river. Budget but perfect for our needs. As we left Apulia the skies darkened and a thunderstorm hit. We watched its slow and steady approach over the mountains. It was supposed to be in the wee hours that the rain came and we only just made it safe and dry to our room for the night.
Showered. aching limbs rubbed and treated. The now fully developed blister on my right foot tended to and out for tea. Esposenda is lovely. A quaint, quiet little seaside town with a good selection of eateries. It's a shame we don't have more time in these little places. It would be nice to see more of tbem but the nature of the beast is moving constantly North to Santiago.
It seems that the pattern for the next 11 days is that we arrive at our finish point around 6pm. Shower, eat and bed by 9.30 ready to start again in the morning. This is our third bed in 4 nights. By the end of this trip we will have slept in 14 different places.
Crispy has become an obsessive stamp collector. If she's not carefull she will have filled her passport before we are anywhere near our destination. Still it keeps her quiet and stops her mythering for a packet of crisps and a bottle of fizzy pop. Plus they are free which is a huge bonus.
Tomorrow we set off for Viana do Castelo.
The route says 24km. So far they have been Conservative in their accuracy in respect of distance. We head inland a tad to be able to cross the next river so the terrain may be a little more varied for a while.
Leaving Vila Do Condo.






Hope you manage to look after your foot, loving the narrative, stay safe and well
ReplyDeleteI'm a soldier...you don't spend all those years in the army without learning that pain is your friend. 😁
ReplyDeleteLooks absolutely lovely , enjoy xxx
ReplyDeleteWell done to you both, you are doing great 🥰🥰
ReplyDeleteFabulous! I feel like I’m on the walk with you 😍
ReplyDeleteLove reading your adventures - you are making some wonderful memories which will never leave you. Keep on trekking x
ReplyDeleteGreat pictures keep up the good work and enjoy your holiday
ReplyDelete