Today we swop countries and move ever northwards into Galicia, Espana.
Portugal has been amazing and the north is a far cry from the beaches and tourist haunts of the Algarve. Its been a while since we visited the Algarve but we weren't too impressed as i recall. To each their own but we both have really enjoyed it here. Walking every day takes you off the beaten track to places that would never be on your radar and for that alone it is interesting and exciting.
Above all we are loving the comoradarie and companionship of being a pilgrim. As I said before we don't walk with anyone as everyone has their own pace, route and agenda. But we do keep coming across the same people at transient little interludes. It's hard to explain but it's a lovely thing to be involved in. Crispy is loving it despite the blisters and aches of long distance walking. I am so pleased and it is definitely one of the best things we have ever done.
Today was an easy day in the scheme of things. Only 14 km but included a river crossing of the Miro river. The river forms the geographical border between Portugal and Spain. We were worried that being a bank holiday the little speed boats that ferry pilgrims across the river wouldn't be running. Last night I found a Spanish company that was operating a full normal service so it took away the worry of being either stranded in Portugal or walking an additional 30km to the land border. The worse case scenario was being landed with a very expensive taxi ride.
We left our lodgings early and headed the 8km up the coast path in order to be at the river for 11.30. I took a wrong turn in the forest and added a couple more km to the journey but we still got there in time for our crossing. There are several companies that operate little speed boats across the river purely to ferry pilgrims. It turns out all were running a normal service so we could have taken a more sedate walk getting there.
Ah well. Better safe than sorry.
Once across the river we arrived in Spain. No border security. No passport control. Nothing. I suppose we could be classed as illegal immigrants. I don't know if there will be an issue when we leave Spain and once again head back to Porto. I'm sure it will be OK. It makes a nice change the British arriving illegally in small boats. Oops. Too political.
Once in Spain we sat on the river and ate our packed lunch before heading over the mountain to A Guarda. We are staying in an old medieval Convent. 15th Century. Crispy loves nuns and I thought it would be nice to give her a taste of the secular life. We are simple pilgrims with little wants or needs and a basic cell will do us good spiritually.
The cell we are staying in is basic with a very rudimentary bathroom. We are expected at mass at midnight so I'm writing the blog now before the Sisters and us are called to vespers. Crispy is so excited she may even get into the habit.
The nuns tell us breakfast is available in the morning so that's a bonus. Crispy will have to be up at 4am to help with baking the bread which is a shame as she wont be able to eat it. I will and i am grateful for her labours. Ive asked her not to wake me till at least 9am. Still it will save me messing about before we head off to Oia. Our next destination en route to meet St James in Santiago.
The best thing about Spain thus far are the foot paths. Sand and shingle or flat slabs. Not the horrible little granite cobblestones of Portugal. It has never occurred to us before but the most important aspect of any foot path is its composition. We don't look at the upcoming route in terms of distance or height gained but purely what the path is made of. The cobblestones are a fecking foot wrecker as we can testify to by our blisters.
It's not the distance or severity of the walk that matters but walking on hard surfaces for 300km is certainly a test of endurance.
It has been a glorious sunny day and the temperature has been in the mid 20's. Perfect for walking. In a while we will go onto the harbour for tea and maybe a cheeky beer.
We went onto the harbour and by chance met with a couple of fellow peregrinos. Two American guys from California and had a nice couple of hours putting the world to rights. Bed time now as back onto the Camino tomorrow
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