Crispy gets spoilt, again

 Dear old crispy has asked me to add this entry to prove its not all hard work and no play.

We had a free day in Santiago where we did very little but cruise the wine bars and resteraunts. A very easy day before catching the bus back to Porto.  I had arranged the bus several days before as they get fully booked very quickly with Pilgrims from all the different Camino moving on. If I can I always use Flixbus when travelling in Europe. The app is easy to navigate and they usually work out the cheapest. Three and a half hours later saw us back in Porto

Since getting here the weather has been amazing.  25 degrees and clear blue skies. I had promised Crispy pure R&R and that is what it has been. A river cruise for almost 8 hours up the Duoro River on a beautiful river boat with breakfast and three course lunch. A Tour of a vineyard and yesterday a guided tour through the oldest Port makers in Porto. With of course a tasting session. The rest of the time we have relaxed and picniced in the many beautiful parks within the city.

I know the old bird makes out that she's hard done by but I do spoil her. Occasionally.

Buen Camino. PORTO

Santiago de Compestela

 We have completed the Camino Portuguese de la Costa. 13 days walking through two countries. Porto in Portugal to Santiago de Compestela in Galicia. The official route distance is 280km but with the little added bits we have walked over 300km. It has been, and will remain, one of the best things we have done out of all our many and varied adventures. Crispy has been amazing. A soldier in her resolve to complete this journey. Despite pain and tiredness she has faced every day stoically and with enthusiasm. I know she set out to do this for me but has turned out really enjoying the experience. I am so very proud of her. Her feet are wrecked but she has never once complained. I will say it again. She is amazing, strong, beautiful and most of all my best friend.

It has been hard going. Every day getting up and setting off onto the trail knowing that at least 20km of distance lies between you and your next bed. 20 km is not a long way but to do it every day takes its toll. Saying that everyday has been a joy as the scenery changes. From the rugged Atlantic coast to the rolling hills and river valleys of Portugal. Eventually winding through the forested hills of Galicia. We have seen and visited places that would only ever gave been a name on a map. Its true that you don't really see a place unless you walk through it. The fine detail, everyday life, people everything makes even the most mundane place amazing in its own right.

Overall the best motivation to continue is the other pilgrims that constantly drop in and out of your lives. All doing the same things with the same purpose. The regular greeting of "Buen Camino" becomes almost a token that you are part of a special group. The friendly greeting pushes you onwards, especially wgen the going is tough and your hurting. We have met some amazing people. Each doing the camino for their own purpose and reason. I consider them all incredible for undertaking this adventure.

There has been no epiphany, no world changing revelations, but then again we didn't expect there to be. What there has been is a greater understanding and self resolve that anybody can do anything they want to.  It's nothing to do with physical fitness it's all to do with a state of mind. 

The guy at the kindergarten said " The person that arrives at Santiago is a different person from the one that left Porto". We agree with him. We are changed in so much as we are closer, appreciate each other even more than we did before ( if that is possible) and grown stronger together. 

We arrived in Santiago de Compestela at around 4pm yesterday. A hard final push of 28km  through the rain with Crispys feet screaming blue murder and my ankle threatening to give up. The route weaves it's way into the Old centre avoiding main roads and motorways. The Spires of the Cathedral popping into view before once more disappearing but never seeming to get closer.

Eventually we arrived in the plaza under the gaze of St James. We admired the ancient facade before making our way to the peregrinos office to register for our Compestela. Wearily we trudged down the paved street and were surprised to see no queues.  We had been told horror stories of the queues as all the different Camino end here.  We limped upto the guy on the door who looked at us sympathetically before telling us in a very sad voice that the office was closed. Crispy nearly collapsed at the news. As we starred at him he smiled and said " only joking. Buen Camino". I had to stop dear old Crispy leaping on him like a zombie and ripping his face off. She instead turned to me and said " That's something you would do" but with more expletives. She's right I would. Itvwould be the perfect job for me. Into the office and the credentials checked. Certificates printed and back on the street within 5 minutes. Everybody was lovely and full of congratulations. The Camino was complete.

I didn't post this yesterday as I wanted to get some pictures of some people who have been a part of this trip. Particularly the American contingent. Meow. Louis. Eric and Katy. ( They very graciously donated to our just giving page) MoMo from China. Some we didn't come across since arriving  but we certainly will remember. Sister Mary Margaret from North Caroline, Charmain from Australia. Anybody we met we thank you for making our Camino fun.

That's it for the blob now as tomorrow we catch a bus back to Porto to spoil ourselves with a few days rest.

The local police who stamped our credetials

The shrine of worn out trainers

10km to go. 

Entering Santiago

The Destination

That was worth it

Momo...

Me ow, Eric, Kate and Louis. Love you guys

Inside the Cathedral. The big swingy smokey thing is broken till 2025

Happy Birthday Mum.

The just giving page has reached £950 with still some promised donations to go. Amazing and we are truly grateful to everyone that has supported us in this venture. If anyone can spare a few bob to push it over the £1000 we would be ecstatic.

I hope the people that have read this blob of our Camino have enjoyed reading the adventure as much as we have enjoyed doing it. Please feel free to add a comment on the blob. It makes writing it more worthwhile.

For now

Bare and Crispy signing off. Santiago de Compestela, Galicia, Espana

Crispy is already talking about another long distance adventure in the not to distant future. She's a rum old bird

Calas del Rai to Padron

 This has been the penultimate days walking before commencing our final approach into Santiago. The weather has not been kind as it has rained most of the day. It has not affected how much we have enjoyed it. Although it has been wet the weather is warm and it's a toss up between umbrella and t shirt  or waterproof jacket and sweating. We again.met up with some fellow pilgrims that have been a part of our journey over the past 12 days. I've said it before but it's the people, complete strangers really. that make this experience special. 

 A highlight of today was Sister Cat from San Francisco who serenaded us with a beautiful rendition of Ave Maria as we walked through a forest section of today's hike. We again met up with her in a cafe later in the day and she asked me what I wanted her to sing. To try and be funny I told her my favourite artist was Eminem and she astounded us by rapping "lose yourself". It was fantastic. She is a superstar. She the led the entire cafe in a rendition of " hit the road Jack" before we all once again set off.

At about the mid point of the walk we passed a kindergarten in a tiny village. We stopped to rest by the fence. A guy came over and asked where we where from. After a brief conversation he said the most prophetic thing I have heard about the Camino. He said " The person who leaves Porto is not the same person who arrives in Santiago". We cannot quantify this statement yet but somehow know it to be true.

 He had a fantastic idea of using pilgrims as a way to engage his students . The students each provide a pilgrim with a personalised scallop shell. The pilgrim in return takes the shell wherever they travel and sends a photograph of the shell to the child via a school email. The shell that travels the furthest wins the child a present. He showed us photographs of Scallop shells in Colombia, New York, Las Vegas. Moscow, everywhere. 

He then got two tiny kids out of class to give Crispy and I a shell each.  Those shells shall be treasured by us both forever. Where ever we go on the planet from this point on the shell shall come with us as our most precious possessions. That shell is more valuable to us than gold but again I can't really justify why. . It was another emotional moment on this fantastic adventure. 

It was hard going today as we are getting tired but was made easy by the people we met. Tomorrow we push on the last 24km to meet St James in Santiago. I've dried our trainers with the hotel hair dryer so at least we will have comfortable feet.

We have mixed emotions at the moment. We want the walk to end as it has been hard everyday getting up and onto the Camino. But neither of us want it to end as it has been a fantastic, amazing adventure.

Bare and Crispy signing off. Padron, Galicia. Espana. Buen Camino

Pontevedra to Calas Del Rai

 Well we are getting closer. Less than 45km to go until we reach our final destination of Santiago de Compostela and complete our pilgrimage. I must admit we are both in two minds about the end of this adventure. In one way it is a relief that we have completed it but on the other hand we don't want it to end. It has been hard work but still, despite the pains, one of the best things we have ever done. 

Today the weather, as forecast, broke and the skies have remained cloudy all day with the odd shower. It hasn't spoiled the day as it has been a great walk through pretty scenery. Small villages and vineyards. The majority has been on hard surfaces but a few long sections on sand and  gravel paths.

These softer paths are our favourite as they are much easier on the feet. 

Plus today we have met several of the friends we have made over the course of the last 11 days and of course new people who we haven't met before. The spirit of commaradarie and joint purpose is for us one of the nicest things about this adventure.

The past few days we have met a fantastic group of American guys. Mia. Kate, James and Eric. Our paths cross only sporadically but they are great company and definitely brighten the day. I hope we get to see them again before, or during our time in, Santiago.

The lodgings are perfect. A comfy little hotel run by a very friendly guy called Fernando. He can't speak a word of English but must count as one of the nicest old guys on the planet. Perfect end to a perfect day

Bare and Crispy signing off Calas del Rai, Galicia, Espana