Last night we decided it was time to see a little more of the Island. As there is no public transport here and the taxi are relatively expensive we booked an organised tour. We are not really fans of the excursion thing but here we have not much choice if we want a look around. We decided on the southern islands boat and snorkling trip, the trip promised cultural highlights such as the pearl factory, bee farm, island tour in a "speed boat" and the highlight of the tour the fish sauce factory. We were so excited we couldn't contain ourselves with expectation.
At 08:30 a mini bus arrived and a smiley young man introduced himself as Henry. Our tour guide. We were the first pick up and climbed aboard the bus.
We set off and called at a couple of hotels in the city to collect our travelling companions for the day.. Nothing like our huts these were very nice hotels in Duan Dong. The tourist resort of the island approximately 7 km from Ong Lang where we were staying. Phu Quoc is in that intermediate stage between being relatively original and a full on tourist destination. In Duan Dong there are nice hotels but they are in what is essentially a working rural town so you get a nice hotel built down an unmade side road next to a recycling shed or woodyard. Every other building close by is trying to convert from shop, butcher, laundry to restaurant or bar to cater to the wants of the tourist. I know this is commerce and development but I do find it a tad sad.
We picked up three other couples. A young Vietnamese couple on holiday from central Viet Nam. A couple of French Canadians, who were on the last leg of a Vietnamese tour, and a couple from Hungary.
The Canadians were using the excursion as a cheap way to get to the Islands for their final few days and would not be with us after the harbour.
They were taking a "slow boat" and we were on a "speed boat". It was at this point Crispy started to worry about the "speed" aspect of the trip.
The first point of call was the pearl factory. There is always a couple of stops on these excursions where they show you something original for 5 minutes and then spend an hour trying to get you to part with you're hard earned cash buying something you dont really want or could possibly need. In North africa its rugs, in Malaysia wood carvings and India everything from statues to elephants. This however was different. The pearl farm shows how they culture pearls. They take a young oyster and impregnate it with a nucleus made from oyster shell. A small incision is made inside the oyster in a very particular way and the nucleus along with donor membrane from another oyster is carefully inserted. A small dose of antibiotic and it is job done. 2 years back in the sea and you have a cultured pearl. Obviously the longer you leave it in the sea the bigger the pearl will be. After the tour of the rest of the factory you are hearded upstairs to the showroom to buy said pearls. The nice thing was there was absolutely no pressure to buy anything. Crispy bought something.
From there we headed to the harbour to catch the boat. We parted company from the Canadians who went off to catch the "slow boat" and we boarded our's. It was a big sleek speed boat and the size of the engine showed that it meant buisness. All on board we chugged out of the harbour before the driver opened it up and we shot out into the South China Sea. It was insane the speed it went and we were airbourne as much as in the water as it bounced over the waves. Crispy, although now great on boats, is not a huge fan of speed. Her face was a grimace with dilated pupil and clenched teeth as we shot over the water. I though she had learned vietnamese as the noises she was making could not be deciphered as English. This persisted for around 30 minutes till we arrived at the first of four islands. Even Crispy agreed the journey wad worth it as we pulled into a lagoon on a spectacularly gorgeous island paradise. The beach was like something from a movie. Crystal clear waters and talcum powder sands. We swam and walked around for a while before again boarding the boat to the next island and lunch.
Lunch was included in the price so I didn't expect anything amazing.
Wrong again. This trip was getting better by the second. After another whirlwind crossing we pulled into what essentially was a fishermans trading post. They had set tables under bamboo covers at the edge of another stunning beach. There were tourists on trips but mostly fishermen sorting catches, chiling and getting boats ready. On the way across in the middle of the sea the boat had stopped as there was someone in the water. It turned out to be a spearfisherman and he climbed aboard the boat and handed the driver his catch of huge grouper before jumping back in the sea and disappearing from view.
The food on the island was amazing. Sea food noodle. Grilled shrimp, rice, veg, chicken (kfc style) and clams. The clams were the best we have ever had. A couple of beers a swim in the sea and then back on the boat to the next island for snorkeling. At the previous islands the boat stops just off the beach so its a waist high paddle through the surf. Here the boat anchored fifty yard from the shore over a coral reef. Crispy is not a fan of deep water so stayed on the boat while I jumped off and snorkeled over the reef. It was at most 20 feet deep but the coral in places formed underwater mounds that almost broke the surface. It was nice to be able to swim between them and explore the coral reef. I am always wary of caves and dark places underwater as the imagination runs wild as to what creatures of the deep may be lurking in wait in them. As much as reason and logic should prevail there is always a primal fear that something big and bitey is going to spring out and take your leg for lunch. I remember nearly drowning in Bulgaria. I was swimming down to the mouth of a small cave when suddenly a large fish swam out in front of my mask. Instinct took over and I shouted in surprise. Being ten feet underwater shouting is not a good idea and I spat my snorkel out and tried to breath sea water. It frightened me and I have been wary since.
The people on the beach must have seen me splashing about like a maniac when I broke the surface and I tried to look calm and collected when I got back to the shore. Probrably mot very convincingly.
It turned out there was nothing more scary than multi coloured fish amongst the reef and I returned to the boat intact.
Another semi airbourne jaunt across the bay saw us just off shore for a spot of fishing. We used hand reels for small grouper and Crispy won hands down. 6 nice sized grouper to my one ugly spikey brown bottom dweller. I dont know what it was but you wouldnt want to eat it.
After that it was back to the harbour and once again on the coach.
Now was the advertised highlight of the tip. The fish sauce factory.
It seems Phu Quoc is the centre of the universe in Viet Nam when it comes to this culinary staple. Nothing is cooked here without it being added. To the average Vietnamese this place is Nirvana. A fishy mecca that people come from all over to marvel at its wonders. We didn't know quite what to expect. Maybe fish themed fun fair rides. Anchovy centered shows. No. It was a pair of open garage doors in a small car park where you could gaze longingly inside at the huge red painted vats of fermenting fish and revel in the overwhelming fishy aroma. It stunk to high heaven. A young lady in a bright red uniform offered a sample taste
of the powerful elixir whist recanting a 30 second dialogue of how it is made. Basically put a load of fish, salt and water in a big wooden bucket and leave it for 6 months. It seems there is a "secret" ingredient but it is very closely guarded and known only to the few. We wont lose sleep pondering what it could be. The entire visit took less than 5 minutes and we can't say it was the highlight of the trip.
From there we visited a bee farm to see some bees. Crispy was a little anxious that we were going to be stung to death but it turns out that the bees are Italian and very friendly. Being Italian I asked the young guy showing us round how the bees understood Vietnamese but the joke was lost on him.
This being the last "attraction" we boarded the bus and headed back to the hut. All in all it was a brilliant day and by far the best "tour" we have ever been on.
After dinner we turned in for an early night. We have been playing cards to pass the evenings by the hut. Crispy must be the world champion at 7 card brag. No matter how I try I cant beat her, I think she must have an extra pack of cards up her knicker leg. There is a scene in the deer hunter movie where they are playing Russian roulette in a Vietnamese opium den for money. If I can find a similar thing here with seven card brag we will be onto a winner..
At 08:30 a mini bus arrived and a smiley young man introduced himself as Henry. Our tour guide. We were the first pick up and climbed aboard the bus.
We set off and called at a couple of hotels in the city to collect our travelling companions for the day.. Nothing like our huts these were very nice hotels in Duan Dong. The tourist resort of the island approximately 7 km from Ong Lang where we were staying. Phu Quoc is in that intermediate stage between being relatively original and a full on tourist destination. In Duan Dong there are nice hotels but they are in what is essentially a working rural town so you get a nice hotel built down an unmade side road next to a recycling shed or woodyard. Every other building close by is trying to convert from shop, butcher, laundry to restaurant or bar to cater to the wants of the tourist. I know this is commerce and development but I do find it a tad sad.
We picked up three other couples. A young Vietnamese couple on holiday from central Viet Nam. A couple of French Canadians, who were on the last leg of a Vietnamese tour, and a couple from Hungary.
The Canadians were using the excursion as a cheap way to get to the Islands for their final few days and would not be with us after the harbour.
They were taking a "slow boat" and we were on a "speed boat". It was at this point Crispy started to worry about the "speed" aspect of the trip.
The first point of call was the pearl factory. There is always a couple of stops on these excursions where they show you something original for 5 minutes and then spend an hour trying to get you to part with you're hard earned cash buying something you dont really want or could possibly need. In North africa its rugs, in Malaysia wood carvings and India everything from statues to elephants. This however was different. The pearl farm shows how they culture pearls. They take a young oyster and impregnate it with a nucleus made from oyster shell. A small incision is made inside the oyster in a very particular way and the nucleus along with donor membrane from another oyster is carefully inserted. A small dose of antibiotic and it is job done. 2 years back in the sea and you have a cultured pearl. Obviously the longer you leave it in the sea the bigger the pearl will be. After the tour of the rest of the factory you are hearded upstairs to the showroom to buy said pearls. The nice thing was there was absolutely no pressure to buy anything. Crispy bought something.
From there we headed to the harbour to catch the boat. We parted company from the Canadians who went off to catch the "slow boat" and we boarded our's. It was a big sleek speed boat and the size of the engine showed that it meant buisness. All on board we chugged out of the harbour before the driver opened it up and we shot out into the South China Sea. It was insane the speed it went and we were airbourne as much as in the water as it bounced over the waves. Crispy, although now great on boats, is not a huge fan of speed. Her face was a grimace with dilated pupil and clenched teeth as we shot over the water. I though she had learned vietnamese as the noises she was making could not be deciphered as English. This persisted for around 30 minutes till we arrived at the first of four islands. Even Crispy agreed the journey wad worth it as we pulled into a lagoon on a spectacularly gorgeous island paradise. The beach was like something from a movie. Crystal clear waters and talcum powder sands. We swam and walked around for a while before again boarding the boat to the next island and lunch.
Lunch was included in the price so I didn't expect anything amazing.
Wrong again. This trip was getting better by the second. After another whirlwind crossing we pulled into what essentially was a fishermans trading post. They had set tables under bamboo covers at the edge of another stunning beach. There were tourists on trips but mostly fishermen sorting catches, chiling and getting boats ready. On the way across in the middle of the sea the boat had stopped as there was someone in the water. It turned out to be a spearfisherman and he climbed aboard the boat and handed the driver his catch of huge grouper before jumping back in the sea and disappearing from view.
The food on the island was amazing. Sea food noodle. Grilled shrimp, rice, veg, chicken (kfc style) and clams. The clams were the best we have ever had. A couple of beers a swim in the sea and then back on the boat to the next island for snorkeling. At the previous islands the boat stops just off the beach so its a waist high paddle through the surf. Here the boat anchored fifty yard from the shore over a coral reef. Crispy is not a fan of deep water so stayed on the boat while I jumped off and snorkeled over the reef. It was at most 20 feet deep but the coral in places formed underwater mounds that almost broke the surface. It was nice to be able to swim between them and explore the coral reef. I am always wary of caves and dark places underwater as the imagination runs wild as to what creatures of the deep may be lurking in wait in them. As much as reason and logic should prevail there is always a primal fear that something big and bitey is going to spring out and take your leg for lunch. I remember nearly drowning in Bulgaria. I was swimming down to the mouth of a small cave when suddenly a large fish swam out in front of my mask. Instinct took over and I shouted in surprise. Being ten feet underwater shouting is not a good idea and I spat my snorkel out and tried to breath sea water. It frightened me and I have been wary since.
The people on the beach must have seen me splashing about like a maniac when I broke the surface and I tried to look calm and collected when I got back to the shore. Probrably mot very convincingly.
It turned out there was nothing more scary than multi coloured fish amongst the reef and I returned to the boat intact.
Another semi airbourne jaunt across the bay saw us just off shore for a spot of fishing. We used hand reels for small grouper and Crispy won hands down. 6 nice sized grouper to my one ugly spikey brown bottom dweller. I dont know what it was but you wouldnt want to eat it.
After that it was back to the harbour and once again on the coach.
Now was the advertised highlight of the tip. The fish sauce factory.
It seems Phu Quoc is the centre of the universe in Viet Nam when it comes to this culinary staple. Nothing is cooked here without it being added. To the average Vietnamese this place is Nirvana. A fishy mecca that people come from all over to marvel at its wonders. We didn't know quite what to expect. Maybe fish themed fun fair rides. Anchovy centered shows. No. It was a pair of open garage doors in a small car park where you could gaze longingly inside at the huge red painted vats of fermenting fish and revel in the overwhelming fishy aroma. It stunk to high heaven. A young lady in a bright red uniform offered a sample taste
of the powerful elixir whist recanting a 30 second dialogue of how it is made. Basically put a load of fish, salt and water in a big wooden bucket and leave it for 6 months. It seems there is a "secret" ingredient but it is very closely guarded and known only to the few. We wont lose sleep pondering what it could be. The entire visit took less than 5 minutes and we can't say it was the highlight of the trip.
From there we visited a bee farm to see some bees. Crispy was a little anxious that we were going to be stung to death but it turns out that the bees are Italian and very friendly. Being Italian I asked the young guy showing us round how the bees understood Vietnamese but the joke was lost on him.
This being the last "attraction" we boarded the bus and headed back to the hut. All in all it was a brilliant day and by far the best "tour" we have ever been on.
After dinner we turned in for an early night. We have been playing cards to pass the evenings by the hut. Crispy must be the world champion at 7 card brag. No matter how I try I cant beat her, I think she must have an extra pack of cards up her knicker leg. There is a scene in the deer hunter movie where they are playing Russian roulette in a Vietnamese opium den for money. If I can find a similar thing here with seven card brag we will be onto a winner..
We have a squatter in our hut. A large foot long lizard with purple spots that lives over the bed. It is a living bug control unit and as such is welcome to stay so long as it stays on the walls and not in the bed.
I think we will call it "Larry".
I think we will call it "Larry".
Bare and Crispy signing off, the hut, Ong Lang
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