Wednesday, 23 January 2019

In the night market

Another uneventful day spent at the hut and beach. Its nice just to chill and Crispy is in her element. The sea is like a bath. Its only ever been southern Asia that we have been able to walk into the sea without the deep breathing and tantric chanting that normally accompanies sea water immersion. Here it is a perfect temperature. The water is crystal clear and a smooth sandy bottom that stays shallow for at least 100 yards. We haven't been any further out than that as there are lots of things that want to bite, sting or eat you here.
The government has not kept or published shark attack statistics since 2010. In 2009 there were 79 confirmed "significant" attacks.
(2010 is around he year mass tourism started)
The South China Sea contains a large population of shark due to the water temperature never falling below 20 degrees. The government states that most of these are now very friendly and dont like to eat tourists which is very reassuring. There is probrably some science around this as sharks, we are told, dont like shallow water or noisy areas.
The biggest waterbourne threat here are jellyfish. Particularly box jellyfish. They are lethal to humans and happily drift all over this region.
These it seems are not averse to noisy tourists. We came across these in Malaysia and although we didn't see any live ones there were a few washed up on the beach where we stayed. In fact the day begore we arrived in Malaysia a European woman had died from box on our beach.
I find these more scary than things with teeth as they are virtually invisible in the water. Plus it would be a very brave shark to take on Crispy.
After a day on the beach we headed back for showers and arranged a taxi to the night markets. They are a good way away as we are staying "out in the sticks". We have been to night markets in various places. Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia and they are always a great experience. Plus they are the best places to try the local delicacies. They are always a noisy feverish affair. Hundreds of locals and tourists in a chaotic crush amongst stalls selling everything from live food to tourist tat.
This was no different. We sauntered around stopping for the occasional beer (crispy found a bar doing Mojito so was well impressed). The choice of foods is mindblowing and includes everything imaginable. Stalls specialising in water snakes and frogs. Meats that I have no idea where they came from. Ice cream rolls and of course noodle dishes.
We decided on seafood and found a stall that seemed busy. We never go to the places that look nicest but always head for the buisiest. That way there is a good chance that food is used quickly and cooked fresh.
This was definitely fresh as most of it was still crawling around our swimming about in a tank. There is something reassuring about being introduced to your dinner before eating it. I chose some large shrimp and after a quick hello waved them goodbye as they were carried away to the barbie. When we next met a few minutes later they were less mobile but tasted wonderful in a chilli sauce. Crispy had vegetable fried rice as shes not keen on seafood at the best of times especially when you have been on first name terms.
The most bizarre foods on sale where poisonous water snake. A real delicacy I believe and one I would like to try whole we are here. These are in seperate sealed tanks and are very aggresive. No surprise really as they most likely realise that they are not the star attraction in a zoo but the next potential main course.
Crispy quickly dropped back into shopping mode and it was a struggle to drag here away before she could buy up all the tourist tat.
Back to the hut with just enough time for a cheeky beer before bed.





Bare and Crispy signing off from the night market, phu Quoc.

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