Chilling on the river

 We left the glorious beach at Ambalangoda and travelled an hour up the coast to Bentota. A popular tourist spot on the west coast. I thought it would be a good place for a few nights before circumnavigating Columbo on our return to Negombo. 

It's a nice riverside apartment just outside of the center of Bentota. Close to the beach and the local sights. It's purely chill time now so we didn't have much planned. It has a garden that opens onto the river, a pool and terraces. Perfect for some quiet time.

Yesterday we found our bearings and crashed on the sands. We took lunch at an amazing little cafe right on the tain tracks just behind the beach. In fact you have to walk along the train tracks to get to it. It had great reviews on trip advisor and we weren't disappointed.

It was reminicent of train street in Hanoi where we had lunch a couple of times. Have I mentioned I like trains.

Today we skipped the beach and took "Ruby" on a local temple tour. There are two important temples here including one that has a tooth relic. Not another Buddha tooth but one from a monk that is reputedly to have been the spitting image of the buddha himself. As such his dentures recieve nearly the same reverence.  I had been forewarned that the old guy that looks after the temple is a bit of a chancer in so much as he insists on haranguing tourists to pay an entrance fee and insists on being a guide. I knew there is no fee and as the temple is relatively small a guide is not needed. I was ready for him. As soon as we entered the temple he appeared like a troll from under the proverbial bridge.

"You need ticket" he sternly recited. " No we dont" I rapidly replied. He looked crestfallen. "You need guide" he quickly retorted. " No we dont" I again repeated. He was visibly affronted at this point. He surprised us with his next comment " I shall have to report this to the chief Monk!". " Fill your boots and phone the Dali Llama" I said. This took him off guard and he skulked away whilst giving us the evil eye. We walked around the complex and ĥe watched from a safe distance. As we were about to enter the main temple, an ancient beautiful structure, he returned. "Give donation" he demanded.

The temple is in dire need of repair so I succumbed. He took us inside and pointed to a locked money chest. He produced a book and informed us for a donation of 1000 rupee we could sign the visitor book. I agreed. I have no issue in supporting historic or religious places and he made a big show of making us watch him push the money through the slot in the chest. The temple. Was so beautiful and on reflection I think the old guy is genuinely trying to raise funds for repairs rather than scam people. Before we left we pushed another 1000 through the slot to help this amazing place. I'm glad we did.

After the temple tour  I arranged a river boat safari through the mangroves on the river where we are staying. It is home to crocodile and other wildlife and had been on the to do list while we are here. The organised tours are quite expensive so as we were driving home in "Ruby" we chanced our arm with a local boatman. He agreed to do the tour at a third of the normal price. 

At 3pm as arranged we took Ruby back to the boatman who was waiting for us. 

We have been through many mangroves and river estuaries all over the world. From the crystal blue waters of Langkawi and Malaysia to the dark waters of the Gambia. All are amazing in their diversity. This was different. Small narrow meandering rivers through thick mangrove and jungle. Very scenic and very quiet. We did spot a 2m crocodile but in all honesty I think it was anchored to the trees. It was in the same spot on our return journey and didn't look a happy bunny. There are lots of crocodile here but like us seek out the quieter regions and are normally secretive creatures.  At one point the boatman pulled up to a small pier deep in the mangroves and a jolly young chap appeared holding a baby crocodile. A well rehearsed photo stop.. He raises the crocodiles to one year of age and releases them back into the wild. It's a conservation project that also makes him a bit of extra cash. I dont think crocodiles are the brightest creatures on the planet or gave many thoughts other than what's for dinner so we had no reservation in partaking in the photo opportunity. It looked well cared and to be honest completely disinterested in our attention. 

It was a little different than our last crocodile incident in the Gambia a few years ago. Which on looking back was really risky and to be honest total madness. 

Tomorrow we have decided to head back towards Negombo via Pinnawalla. It's a long 3 hour detour inland to an Elephant orphanage. Just one night to break the journey, watch the Elephants and then an easy 2 hours ride back to Negombo to drop Ruby off. We will be really sad to let go of her. She has been amazing and definitely one of the best things about this trip. She has given us the freedom to change our itinerary at the drop of a hat and get to places that otherwise would be impossible. ( I've just heard that tuk tuk rental is now available in Cambodia so it's definitely an option for next January. We have seen a little of Cambodia and it would be a fantastic adventure in Ruby2)

Bare and Crispy Signing off, Bentota, Sri Lanka.

We have been trying for three weeks to get a photo of these huge flying fox (1.4 meter wide wingspan) with no success. This is a borrowed pic off the Internet. Definitely my favourite animal here and they are everywhere.