Over the hill

 When we first “found” Parga all those years ago it was magical. It still is. There are three distinct local beaches. There are many more locally but to access them you would need your own transport. The three beaches here are Parga beach next to the small harbour. Valtos beach on the other side of the castle and Lichnos. Lichnos is separated from Parga by a large forested hill. Water taxis serve both Valtos and Lichnos from the harbour in Parga town. On our first visit, many years ago, we decided to walk over the hill to Lichnos. It’s a long way and in the scheme of things a big hill. Covered in olive groves and crowned by two tiny chapels. It was hard, we didn’t know what to expect, and Crispy didn’t really enjoy it. I was thus  very surprised this morning when she suggested we walk it again. Never one to miss the opportunity for a bit of exercise or a hill I quickly agreed. Within minutes I had the backpack ready and we were off. It was hot today so  I made sure we had sufficient drinks and a picnic to keep her happy.

 We retraced our steps of years ago through the harbour and onto the trail that leads up and over the hill. Not surprisingly there were no other people on the trail. Everyone else it seems had opted for the more sensible scenic route in a water taxi. I’m not one for frivolous expense so was pleased that Crispy had decided to walk. We have been very sedate here in Parga. Other than the walk over the castle to swim we have done little else. It will be a good exercise to get her old bones moving before we once again start our travels.

The initial climb is steep and overgrown. Rough trails winding up through the olive groves. Crispy marched on like a latter day Spartan warrior. Immune to the thorns and thickets of Mediterranean scrub that block the path. I was very impressed and if truth be known had trouble keeping up with her. 

At the halfway point to the summit we stopped at one of the small chapels that dot the hillside. A tiny white single roomed affair. Crispy insisted on lighting a candle for the souls of the people we have loved and sadly lost. It’s a beautiful thing and one that gives her peace.She has performed this small ritual ever since we started travelling and it always makes both of us feel good.

Sitting outside the chapel in the shade we were joined by another couple attempting the hike.

A young couple sat beside us in the shade. As soon as we heard them talking it was obvious where they had come from. Crispy interjected “by eck, that’s a gradely wigin voice”. He replied “ aye lass, it is”. Had anyone else been around they would have thought we were communicating in tongues.

It was there first time here and they too had fallen in love with it. They had found it by accident just as we had. Like us on our first visit they had decided on the hike We performed the ritual of silence and made them swear that they would never tell another living soul about this incredible Ionian Shanghai La.

They were from Hindley of all places. He used to work at the butchers in Blackrod. It never ceases to amaze me how small the planet is. We have been in remote corners of the globe and met either people we know or that live in our local area. We didn’t meet anyone else for the remainder of the hike.

The first half of the trail we were shaded by the olive groves. The second half is open to the skies. We used our newly acquired beach umbrella as a parasol. I walked beside crispy like a punkawalla shielding his princess from the fierce rays of the sun. Holding aloft the large blue and white brolly.

We descended into Lichnos in style. It is a large crescent shaped Sandy beach with beautiful crystal clear shallow water. There is not much here other than overpriced beach bars serving drinks and snacks to the people staying in the posh overpriced hotels that line the beach. There is also a campsite with a small market to replenish our dwindling fluid supplies.

Which ever way you enter Lichnos involves a very steep hill. Either the climb over the hill or on the steep metalled road from the highway. We knew we would have, at some point, to climb the same route we were now descending.

Once at the beach we lay in the shade of a large tree. The public beach was empty as everyone who took the taxi had bought a sun bed on the “organised” part of the sands. It was peaceful and calm. We swam and later had our picnic under the tree. We never use sun beds unless they are free. That’s not to say crispy doesn’t like them it’s just that they are always on the busy part of the beaches. Grouped together like cars in a car park. Ordered and organised. We prefer the less crowded areas. It’s not as comfortable but it’s always quieter and usually prettier. The cost is also a major factor if your travelling for any length of time. The average is 5 euro a day per person for bed and umbrella. That’s 10 euros multiplied by 30 days equals 300 euros just to lie on somebody else’s bed for a few hours. It’s not possible on my meagre pension. Sand in your knickers is a nuisance but better than a major financial outlay.

After a glorious few hours We watched the people queue for the returning water taxis. We then set off to climb the very steep road back to Parga. 

Suitably refreshed at a little Taverna at the top of the road we walked back to Parga along the highway. Crispy’s enthusiasm for scaling the mountain a second time had waned. It was a great day and though tiring we really enjoyed it.

Other than swimming, eating and lying on the beach there is nothing to report from Parga.  I have just got the eye pad out to organise the next leg of the travel. We move off in two days. Bound for Lefkada before moving onto Kefalonia. There should be no long days travelling now. Parga to Lefkada, Lefkada to Kefalonia and then back to the mainland to the Peloponnese. 

We love Parga but the travel itch is starting to rear it’s head and Crispy is getting restless. Although sad to go we will be ready for pastures new when the time arrives. Untold wonders no doubt await us.

 

Bare and Crispy, Still in the cottage, in an alley, Parga, Epirus