Day 2. The beach
As I predicted Crispy awoke full of woe at the amount of bites and blood loss she had endured at the hands of the super mossies last night.
I knew Kerala was a malaria free zone and as such neglected to bring insect repellent. Plus we were restricted by the 100ml fluid rule in hand luggage. The fact that we didn't,t bring anti histamine to compensate for the lack of said repellent was a pure oversight.
We have tried almost every brand of insect repellent in the past and found most as much use as a chocolate fireguard.
The only things that have worked are lemons and chewing tobacco. Lemons halved and rubbed on the skin are great for mossies and chewing tobacco rubbed on the sweaty bits certainly deters leeches. (Reminder to self to get some chewing tobacco as there are leeches at the next three destinations. Crispy is as yet blissfully unaware but no doubt will soldier on).
Up at 0900 hours and out onto the streets. A quick stroll through Cochin took us to the ferry port. Tuk Tuk drivers are attracted to ferry ports like mossies to a fat lad and it wasn,t long before
we were accosted.
There aren,t many tourists here at the moment so we must stand out like a stain on a hotel bedsheet.
We had intended to take foot passenger on the ferry and catch a bus on the other side for the 25km journey to the beach. Total cost 2 pounds. After no small amount of bartering we secured the use of the tuk tuk, its driver for the full day, including the ferry crossing, for 3 pounds. I like the buses here but Crispy is still getting over her jet lag so I pushed the boat out on this occasion. I hope she doesn't get used to all this indulgence.
Over the ferry and a nerve tingling 25km ride to Cherai beach. I think I spelled this wrong last night but the sprite had kicked in.
I don't know if the driver was just pissed off at being driven down to 3 pounds for the day or just simply suicidal.
Anyhow we finally arrived. The visit today was for 2 especial reasons. 1 a swim and lounge on the beach, but also to see if I should change our itinerary and head back here for a few nights before jetting home. As it turned out There is not much here to keep Crispy occupied. Miles of gorgeous sand but no shade. Waves that make a tsunami look like a fart in a bath, but more importantly no alcohol. There are only two places that serve beer here. One is a dark dive frequented only by men and set back from the beach. The other is a run down guest house that is not the most pretty establishment on the planet. Think sams bar with palm trees (if you know same bar you will know what I mean).
After an hour on the beach and a quick swim, by swim I mean tumble in the waves, we grabbed a beer (at sams bar, Well needs must when the devil drives) and made our way back along the beach. News of our arrival must have spread because we were accosted by a large group of locals who were all intent on having their photo taken with us. I new this blog was going to be popular but I didn't,t think we had gone viral.
The best part of an hour was spent with everyone on the beach wanting their photo taken with Crispy.
We have found this whenever we have travelled through India. Crispy is a photo magnet. We don't really understand what its about but its always good fun and harmless.
On the way back I spotted a pharmacy and asked our driver to pull over whilst I bought some antihistamine for Crispy.
I jogged back up the road and stood at the counter smiling at two small elderly be spectacled ladies who ran the pharmacy. They were the kind of glasses that make your eyes seem 3 times bigger than they are. I looked at them and they stared back as if I was naked with a chicken on my head. "Have you any anti histamines" I asked politely. Nothing not even a blink was the reply. After several minutes of staring at me with those large unblinking eyes, one looked at the other and then back to me. "Anti histamine" I repeated. The younger of the two looked at the older and repeated "anti histamine" and then looked back at me.
This went on for several minutes before the elder tentatively retrieved a box from a shelf and passed them to me like I was holding a gun. "How much" I said. "20 rupee" she said. Still looking terrified. I put the money on the counter took my hard won medications and was walking away when they both shouted in unison" have a nice day". Surreal.
Back to Cochin and the home stay for a shower. Then out to catch a Kathikali show. This unusual ancient art form only exists in Kerala so we really wanted to see it. It involves a group of actors in amazing costume reanacting famous Hindu stories through the medium of mime. Accompanied by a singer and drums. It seems it takes the actors 20 Years to perfect their art.
Its really hard to explain so I suggest you YouTube it. Crispy loved it.
Anyhow just had a great meal and some beers. Lay in bed writing this blob, Crispy sleeping the sleep of the blest and no doubt dreaming of the adventures that await us. Busy day tomorrow.
Bare and Crispy signing off.
PS here's some more pics.
As I predicted Crispy awoke full of woe at the amount of bites and blood loss she had endured at the hands of the super mossies last night.
I knew Kerala was a malaria free zone and as such neglected to bring insect repellent. Plus we were restricted by the 100ml fluid rule in hand luggage. The fact that we didn't,t bring anti histamine to compensate for the lack of said repellent was a pure oversight.
We have tried almost every brand of insect repellent in the past and found most as much use as a chocolate fireguard.
The only things that have worked are lemons and chewing tobacco. Lemons halved and rubbed on the skin are great for mossies and chewing tobacco rubbed on the sweaty bits certainly deters leeches. (Reminder to self to get some chewing tobacco as there are leeches at the next three destinations. Crispy is as yet blissfully unaware but no doubt will soldier on).
Up at 0900 hours and out onto the streets. A quick stroll through Cochin took us to the ferry port. Tuk Tuk drivers are attracted to ferry ports like mossies to a fat lad and it wasn,t long before
we were accosted.
There aren,t many tourists here at the moment so we must stand out like a stain on a hotel bedsheet.
We had intended to take foot passenger on the ferry and catch a bus on the other side for the 25km journey to the beach. Total cost 2 pounds. After no small amount of bartering we secured the use of the tuk tuk, its driver for the full day, including the ferry crossing, for 3 pounds. I like the buses here but Crispy is still getting over her jet lag so I pushed the boat out on this occasion. I hope she doesn't get used to all this indulgence.
Over the ferry and a nerve tingling 25km ride to Cherai beach. I think I spelled this wrong last night but the sprite had kicked in.
I don't know if the driver was just pissed off at being driven down to 3 pounds for the day or just simply suicidal.
Anyhow we finally arrived. The visit today was for 2 especial reasons. 1 a swim and lounge on the beach, but also to see if I should change our itinerary and head back here for a few nights before jetting home. As it turned out There is not much here to keep Crispy occupied. Miles of gorgeous sand but no shade. Waves that make a tsunami look like a fart in a bath, but more importantly no alcohol. There are only two places that serve beer here. One is a dark dive frequented only by men and set back from the beach. The other is a run down guest house that is not the most pretty establishment on the planet. Think sams bar with palm trees (if you know same bar you will know what I mean).
After an hour on the beach and a quick swim, by swim I mean tumble in the waves, we grabbed a beer (at sams bar, Well needs must when the devil drives) and made our way back along the beach. News of our arrival must have spread because we were accosted by a large group of locals who were all intent on having their photo taken with us. I new this blog was going to be popular but I didn't,t think we had gone viral.
The best part of an hour was spent with everyone on the beach wanting their photo taken with Crispy.
We have found this whenever we have travelled through India. Crispy is a photo magnet. We don't really understand what its about but its always good fun and harmless.
On the way back I spotted a pharmacy and asked our driver to pull over whilst I bought some antihistamine for Crispy.
I jogged back up the road and stood at the counter smiling at two small elderly be spectacled ladies who ran the pharmacy. They were the kind of glasses that make your eyes seem 3 times bigger than they are. I looked at them and they stared back as if I was naked with a chicken on my head. "Have you any anti histamines" I asked politely. Nothing not even a blink was the reply. After several minutes of staring at me with those large unblinking eyes, one looked at the other and then back to me. "Anti histamine" I repeated. The younger of the two looked at the older and repeated "anti histamine" and then looked back at me.
This went on for several minutes before the elder tentatively retrieved a box from a shelf and passed them to me like I was holding a gun. "How much" I said. "20 rupee" she said. Still looking terrified. I put the money on the counter took my hard won medications and was walking away when they both shouted in unison" have a nice day". Surreal.
Back to Cochin and the home stay for a shower. Then out to catch a Kathikali show. This unusual ancient art form only exists in Kerala so we really wanted to see it. It involves a group of actors in amazing costume reanacting famous Hindu stories through the medium of mime. Accompanied by a singer and drums. It seems it takes the actors 20 Years to perfect their art.
Its really hard to explain so I suggest you YouTube it. Crispy loved it.
Anyhow just had a great meal and some beers. Lay in bed writing this blob, Crispy sleeping the sleep of the blest and no doubt dreaming of the adventures that await us. Busy day tomorrow.
Bare and Crispy signing off.
PS here's some more pics.
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