Saturday, 14 November 2015

All along the backwaters, by the rushes tall.

Bare and Crispy, Anayam, Kerala, India

Great meal last night by the resident house boy. We ordered at 6 and got the food at 8. Home cooking at its best. A great butter chicken, chapati and rice. All washed down with a sprite (+ secret ingredient of course).
Slept really well apart from as we were just nodding off a strange sound disturbed us. Its desperately quiet here other than the sounds of the jungle. A strange snuffelling sound came from outside our door which leads directly to the balcony. At first I thought it was the sound of claws on wood but after several minutes decided it was something large "sniffing" at the door.
It was the same sound a dog makes when it shoves its nose through a moving cars window to try and grab some air. I didn't open the door to see so I guess we will never know .

A similar thing happened years ago whilst at a small village high in the Himalaya. We had been drinking with a group of Sherpas and I partook of a few too many Everest whiskies. I was taken with a sudden need to answer the call of nature and needed to go to the loo. You soon learn that you only get a three minute warning in India and a fool ignores it at his or her peril. In this case the toilet was about 300 meters away through thick jungle suspended over a river. Armed with my trusty head torch I made my way through the jungle to the river. Once inside the small wooden box that housed the toilet I dropped my trousers and assumed the position.
After a few moments something large and furry crashed through the trees outside. I think it was hairy as it smelled horrible, or that could have been me I guess.
I could hear the thing  moving around outside as I sat there vulnerable in the darkness. Fear and whisky overwhelmed me. I turned my head torch on. Then I thought that the light would attract it so I turned the head torch off. But then it was too dark and I resolved that if I was going to be eaten I would want to see the thing that had me for supper so I turned the head torch on again. It went quiet. Then the snuffling began. Sniffing and grunting at the door. Before going to the loo the Sherpas had been talking about the Yeti which is taken very seriously by the mountain people. They wear charms and say prayers to ward it off. In my whisky fuelled state I convinced myself that it was this that was sniffing at my door. I was going to be the first recorded victim of the abominable snowman and it was going to happen whilst my pants were round my ankles.
After what seemed an eternity the snuffling and grunting stopped and I heard "the thing" crash off into the jungle and the night. I had never been more relieved, in both senses of the word.
In the cold light of day I think the mountain beast was more likely a wild boar but the memory still haunts me.

Anyhow the snuffling at our door abruptly ceased and all was quiet. Comparatively so. We slept well and were awakened at 0900 by the house boy offering breakfast.

I had resolved to take Crispy on a little trek today to stop her siezing up and becoming lazy. 15km from here is a bird sanctuary and I know that she really enjoyed the ornithology whilst in the Gambia. Into a tuk tuk and off. The sanctuary is on the lake at korakorum. Although all the migratory birds don't arrive until December I thought the trek would do Crispy good.
We all know how much she enjoys the jungle.
The trek runs several kilometers through jungle along the shore of the lake. At about the halfway point on one of the small estuaries we came across a little toothless old guy with a canoe.
For a few rupees he took us out onto the lake for a spot of nature watching. We managed to see several different types of kingfisher, flycatcher, snakebird and cormorant. Plus a bat that would put any self respecting vampire to shame.
Oh plus a two foot lizard and turtles so we can't complain.




After the trek we really needed a beer so resolved to find one at all costs. We had noted a small sign on the way in stating "beer parlour" so this was definitely our next destination. We followed the sign to the KTDC hotel. These are government tourist hotels aimed at the Indian market. Think Butlins with red saris. We didn't know if we were allowed in as we were not guests but the desire for alcohol over ruled every other thought and we decided to blag it. We walked confidently through the first security check point. Same at the second. Then swiftly through reception and we were in. The request for 2 beers was swiftly attended to and a great vegetarian curry eaten. Its only after we had eaten were we asked if we were guests or not. A few fevered conversations, sideways glances and the bill was paid. We were home free.


Back to the home stay for a quick shower and a sprite. Wink wink.
A large family of Indians have just turned up , staying here 1 night,  en route to lakshindweep for a cruise, so Crispy has had to endure yet another prolonged photo session. We are definitely going to have to start charging for this desirable commodity.

Well night is again falling and the jungle is once again waking up. I wonder if the Anayam beast will return tonight. Time will tell. Tomorrow is going to be one of the hardest in respect of travelling. Over 100 miles up into the mountains. Crispy is so excited that I bet she doesn't sleep tonight.

As of yet no one has commented on this little blob of ours. I have checked our audience stats, get us, and I thus far have followers in America and Nova Scotia as well as good old blighty. Unless one of our friends has emigrated to Nova Scotia since we left were not sure how 8 people in the far north of Canada have got involved. Let us no who you are?.
If people could be so kind as to add a few comments it might spur us on. The comment box is at the bottom of each entry.

Bare and Crispy signing off, near Anayam, Kerala, India.









1 comment:

  1. I am really enjoying reading your blob, and would love to someday spend time with you exploring, Unfortunately we go away quite often in our motor home so will probably never get the chance to meet up.
    Thank you once again for your excellent read x
    Ray Goth Horwich nr. Bolton Lancashire

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