Back where it all began

 In the morning after an amazingly quiet night we drove Ruby back to the hotel for breakfast. We took our repast whilst watching the elephants play in the river. At around 9am we took our leave and  climbed aboard our little red love machine. The drive took around 3 hours as we decided to take the scenic route. In reality I admit I took the longest route as I really didn't want to hand Ruby back to her owners.  I think I am going to suffer detachment issues for quite a while.

An uneventful drive saw us back in Negombo where we started just short of a month ago. We called into our digs to drop of the matildas and reluctantly drove Ruby home. I think my driving instructor was really surprised that we returned her intact and unharmed apart from the rogue monkey damage. I honestly think he expected us to return her on a low loader. 

A month ago when we picked her up the roads in Negombo seemed crazy and chaotic. After all our adventures and the busy places we have been through it felt like a ghost town. I now consider myself an expert in handling these amazing little machines. We have taken Ruby through jungle track ways. Over mountains and across beaches. Apart from the capital I would be happy to take her anywhere. In fact so enamoured am I with the tuk tuk I am seriously considering trying to buy one in India and drive it home across the middle east and Europe. It would be a fantastic adventure. I've even worked out a route. I just need to work out the legal logistics but it is definitely possible.

Today we caught the train into the capital to have a mooch before flying back to Crispy HQ tomorrow. As I may have mentioned I love trains. Especially steam and narrow gauge. These are dirty big smelly rusty old diesels but trains non the less. There are only two class of passenger here. Second  and third. The price difference is pennies. Basically second class have seats and third is standing only.  The Colombo commuter service only has second class carriages and is a slow train. 1 hour 25 mins to cover a distance of 35km. No windows and the doors don't close but very reliable and cheap.  It was an adventure and we really enjoyed it. 

Like Indian trains they are constantly boarded by. Beggars, hawkers and entertainers.  On these short journeys we were confronted by beggars with various deformity and trauma. Entertainers in the shape of a flute blowing dwarf and a screaming banshee that wailed a "song" through a portable speaker. And hawkers selling everything from fruit to popcorn. 

It I'd certainly an experience. Indian trains are the same.

Colombo is like any other Asian city. A mix of beautiful new hotels and office blocks surrounded by a chaotic collection of squalid older buildings. There is really nothing there to interest tourists and I suggest that fellow travellers give it a wide berth. The train ride was an adventure but other than that it is, In our opinion, not worth visiting. However having seen the congestion and traffic at first hand we are glad that we took Ruby on the detour. 

This is the last entry for the blob as tomorrow is just a travelling day.

To summarise:

Sri Lanka is beautiful. From The jungle and temples of the north to the mountains of the central Highlands it is amazing. The beaches of the south are beautiful but in no way can compete with places like Thailand or Malaysia.  The best part of this trip has, apart from Ruby, once again been the people. They are welcoming and friendly. Genuinely happy to make you feel at home in their small island nation. It is cheap to visit in comparison to other SE Asian countries and offers great value for money for the standard of budget accomodation You can find. More importantly it is clean which can sometimes be an issue in other places.

We have loved it here and once again it has been an amazing adventure. Certainly different to anything we have done before. Even the weather which has curtailed some of our planned itinerary hasn't distracted from how great this wonderful country is.

We are a little disappointed that the rains in the mountains meant that we didn't get to see the highlands at their best but it's a great reason to come back again.

Bare and Crispy signing off for the last time Negombo, Sri 🇱🇰 Lanka

More Elephants

 We are on the final leg of our travels now. The time has gone so quickly and we can't believe we are heading back to negombo.

At some point we knew we would have to go through or circumnavigate the capital colombo to get back to drop Ruby off in readiness for our flight home. I considered trying to drive through the capital but when the local Tuk Tuk drivers go pale and shake their heads at the prospect I decided to reconsider.  Instead we decided to head inland on a four hour drive to pinnewala.  From here tomorrow it's only a short 2 hour ride back to negombo.

Pinnewala was on our original itinery but we missed it on the outbound leg of our travels. It's home to the government elephant orphanage and is a popular spot to watch the Elephants bathing in the river.  I couldn't get into the hotel that overlooks the river where three times a day the elephant are brought down from the orphanage to bathe. Instead I chose the annexe which are in effect four repurposed shiping containers on a farm close by. It sounds shocking but has worked out a treat. When we arrived the elephants, lots of them were being taken down the road which leads to our container. There was a little confusion as to what we needed to do and after a caffuffle and several calls to the hotel manager we were directed down a very narrow backstreet and ended up following the elephant to the riverbank.

It was great to see but not an easy task due to the elephants, rangers and crowds of eager tourists.  It was complicated by the fact that poor old Rubys clutch cable has stretched a little and it's getting harder to change gear or select neutral. However we managed without running over an elephant or one of the rangers. The container wasn't ready for a few hours so we sat in the bar of the hotel overlooking the river and watched the elephants bathing. Crispy was thrilled. Normally it's 20 dollars per adult to watch the spectacle but as hotel guests it was free. Amazing  considering that the container only cost 18 dollars for the night. Result.

After being showered and washed this big lad would go back across the river and mud bathe. He did it several times. Much to the rangers chagrin.

Eventually when the elephant had had enough water activity they meandered back to their enclosures and we were directed to our "room". 

The containers are a few minutes drive away up a very narrow farm track overlooking some paddy fields. From the outside they look like a forgotten corner of a dockyard but inside are amazing. Really well presented with a/c. Full bathroom, complete with power shower, wifi and even satellite tv.  

On the sun roof of our container

(As we descend into our dotage Crispy has designs on building a container house on the front field of the hovel at Crispy HQ. That way we can live on our own land when we downsize and sell the cottage at minimal ongoing  expense. We intend to explore this option over the next year or two. After having seen what can be done inside a container I'm well up for it)

We showered and chilled before driving Ruby back to the hotel for tea. We got chatting to a Polish family that are in Sri Lanka for a two week holiday. They were good fun to be with and we enjoyed their company. It was good to know that they don't like the Russians either.

 I must admit the food was the worst we have had since being here but we find that is always the case and one of the reasons we try to avoid expensive hotels. The Polish guys told us that their room in the hotel was 120 dollars a night and I am so glad we, by good fortune, got the container.

 After a few beers we took Ruby home to bed. It's a private road so there was no risk or problem driving her back in the dark. Apart from the fact her headlights are pretty useless but we managed without ending up in a paddy field.

In the morning after breakfast, watching the elephants take their morning shower, we head back to negombo and will say good bye to Dear old Ruby.  We are really going to miss her..........

A word about the orphanage. This is a government facility that cares for abandoned or abused elephant. All have been domesticated or used in the tourist trade in the past so none can be released into the wild. As such they are cared for here. Some are so traumatised by their past abuse that they are unpredictable and dangerous both to the other elephant and the rangers. As such these poor guys are chained whilst bathing. The rest are free to wander and do as they like within reason. It's not ideal but apart from euthanize the troubled creatures there is no other affordable option.  The spectacle of them bathing helps fund their upkeep. It is good to see that there is no interaction with the animals such as riding or feeding apart from for a few dollars more you can get in the water with the safe ones and give them a bit of a scrub. They seemed to enjoy it and all look in good condition. At least one was pregnant and there were several happy looking babies busy playing in the water.

Bare and Crispy signing off, Punewalla, Sri Lanka

Chilling on the river

 We left the glorious beach at Ambalangoda and travelled an hour up the coast to Bentota. A popular tourist spot on the west coast. I thought it would be a good place for a few nights before circumnavigating Columbo on our return to Negombo. 

It's a nice riverside apartment just outside of the center of Bentota. Close to the beach and the local sights. It's purely chill time now so we didn't have much planned. It has a garden that opens onto the river, a pool and terraces. Perfect for some quiet time.

Yesterday we found our bearings and crashed on the sands. We took lunch at an amazing little cafe right on the tain tracks just behind the beach. In fact you have to walk along the train tracks to get to it. It had great reviews on trip advisor and we weren't disappointed.

It was reminicent of train street in Hanoi where we had lunch a couple of times. Have I mentioned I like trains.

Today we skipped the beach and took "Ruby" on a local temple tour. There are two important temples here including one that has a tooth relic. Not another Buddha tooth but one from a monk that is reputedly to have been the spitting image of the buddha himself. As such his dentures recieve nearly the same reverence.  I had been forewarned that the old guy that looks after the temple is a bit of a chancer in so much as he insists on haranguing tourists to pay an entrance fee and insists on being a guide. I knew there is no fee and as the temple is relatively small a guide is not needed. I was ready for him. As soon as we entered the temple he appeared like a troll from under the proverbial bridge.

"You need ticket" he sternly recited. " No we dont" I rapidly replied. He looked crestfallen. "You need guide" he quickly retorted. " No we dont" I again repeated. He was visibly affronted at this point. He surprised us with his next comment " I shall have to report this to the chief Monk!". " Fill your boots and phone the Dali Llama" I said. This took him off guard and he skulked away whilst giving us the evil eye. We walked around the complex and ĥe watched from a safe distance. As we were about to enter the main temple, an ancient beautiful structure, he returned. "Give donation" he demanded.

The temple is in dire need of repair so I succumbed. He took us inside and pointed to a locked money chest. He produced a book and informed us for a donation of 1000 rupee we could sign the visitor book. I agreed. I have no issue in supporting historic or religious places and he made a big show of making us watch him push the money through the slot in the chest. The temple. Was so beautiful and on reflection I think the old guy is genuinely trying to raise funds for repairs rather than scam people. Before we left we pushed another 1000 through the slot to help this amazing place. I'm glad we did.

After the temple tour  I arranged a river boat safari through the mangroves on the river where we are staying. It is home to crocodile and other wildlife and had been on the to do list while we are here. The organised tours are quite expensive so as we were driving home in "Ruby" we chanced our arm with a local boatman. He agreed to do the tour at a third of the normal price. 

At 3pm as arranged we took Ruby back to the boatman who was waiting for us. 

We have been through many mangroves and river estuaries all over the world. From the crystal blue waters of Langkawi and Malaysia to the dark waters of the Gambia. All are amazing in their diversity. This was different. Small narrow meandering rivers through thick mangrove and jungle. Very scenic and very quiet. We did spot a 2m crocodile but in all honesty I think it was anchored to the trees. It was in the same spot on our return journey and didn't look a happy bunny. There are lots of crocodile here but like us seek out the quieter regions and are normally secretive creatures.  At one point the boatman pulled up to a small pier deep in the mangroves and a jolly young chap appeared holding a baby crocodile. A well rehearsed photo stop.. He raises the crocodiles to one year of age and releases them back into the wild. It's a conservation project that also makes him a bit of extra cash. I dont think crocodiles are the brightest creatures on the planet or gave many thoughts other than what's for dinner so we had no reservation in partaking in the photo opportunity. It looked well cared and to be honest completely disinterested in our attention. 

It was a little different than our last crocodile incident in the Gambia a few years ago. Which on looking back was really risky and to be honest total madness. 

Tomorrow we have decided to head back towards Negombo via Pinnawalla. It's a long 3 hour detour inland to an Elephant orphanage. Just one night to break the journey, watch the Elephants and then an easy 2 hours ride back to Negombo to drop Ruby off. We will be really sad to let go of her. She has been amazing and definitely one of the best things about this trip. She has given us the freedom to change our itinerary at the drop of a hat and get to places that otherwise would be impossible. ( I've just heard that tuk tuk rental is now available in Cambodia so it's definitely an option for next January. We have seen a little of Cambodia and it would be a fantastic adventure in Ruby2)

Bare and Crispy Signing off, Bentota, Sri Lanka.

We have been trying for three weeks to get a photo of these huge flying fox (1.4 meter wide wingspan) with no success. This is a borrowed pic off the Internet. Definitely my favourite animal here and they are everywhere. 

Back on the beach

 Not much to report over the past two days. Beach, Swim, bed. The normal beach time routine. Crispy has loved it. We haven't moved from the gorgeous beach in front of our room for two days. The rooms are basic and, owned by a lovely lady called Chandi. They have everything we need. Clean bed, a fan and hot water. Who could ask for more. She also operates a small seafood restaurant right on the beach so there has been no need to do anything. The weather has been great and we have loved it. 

There are a lot of Russians here in the south and they can be hard work. They are all mostly self catering as the ruble is worth nothing outside of Russia thanks to Mr P's little incursion into Ukraine  id love to get their impression of the situation but there is a language barrier and I am afraid it could get heated. 

There is an unwritten law when travelling that you dont talk about politics or religion. It's worked well  so far.

Suffice to say the Sri Lankans don't like them and we have even been in places where the locals have refused to serve them. My experience is that we don't like them either.

On the way to Ambalangoda ( where we are now) we called into a turtle sanctuary. It's run by an amazing man who is carrying on his father's dream of conserving these amazing creatures. His entire family were killed in the tsunami that struck Sri Lanka in 2004. It was heart breaking to see the damage that was done and hear  the stories of all those that lost their lives in that horrible disaster. Sri Lanka now has a Tsunami early warning system and the signs and siren towers will hopefully prevent such loss of life in the future. 

Turtle facts

There are 6 species of Turtle here in Sri. Lanka. (We have seen 3 of them in the wild and swam with one.)

Green turtles are so called because if you remove the shell the flesh is Green. It is this species that was used to make Turtle soup.

Thankfully all turtle are now protected  and a long jail sentence is enforced in anyone caught harming these amazing creatures.

Turtles lay 150 eggs in one batch between December and April. Only 1% born naturally reach adulthood. With hatchery born Turtle the percentage is much higher as their biggest predators are birds before they reach the ocean.

A turtle will only ever have one sexual partner. If either dies they will not mate again.

 

Turtles always return to the same beach they were born on. It is assumed they find there way by magnetic variations.

A female Turtle only starts laying eggs when she is 30 years old.

Turtles carry Salmonella so no touching

Night time, dinner on the beach.

We fire up "Ruby" in the morning for probably our last destination before heading back to Negombo. We were talking over dinner about how it doesn't seem like we have been in Sri Lanka two minutes. Already it's nearly over . We have loved it......

Bare and Crispy signing off Ambalangoda, Sri Lanka

Galle.

 We left Dikwella this morning after loading up "Ruby" for our 2 hour journey to Galle. We are on the final arc of our travels now back towards Negombo. Galle is an old town on the southern coast. The seat of colonialn rule under first the Portuguese and then the Dutch. It's a big town but the attraction is the Dutch Fort. Built  on a promitory jutting out into the Indian Ocean it is a self contained colonial town within the walks of a 16th century fortress. The next 2 days will be more cultural than beach. There are many hotels and lodgings within the old town walls but secure parking is a problem. I didn't want to leave "Ruby" anywhere where she wouldn't feel safe. In the rural areas it is not a problem but in a busy town could be a problem. There is almost no security with a tuk tuk. Anybody can simply push her away in the dark and we would never see her again. It's not so much the Tuk Tuk itself that is desirable but her wheels and engine. As such I chose a quiet little house in a private secure garden a short 15 minute walk away. It is on Jail road and is a good location. I didn't realise when i booked that the jail in the name actually meant it was adjacent to a Prison. One of the largest in Sri Lanka and home to many dangerous criminals. It looks scary from the outside so heaven knows what it must be like inside. I have worked in a few prisons in the UK and have an idea what they are like. I think Strangeways must seem like a 5 star hotel compared to this one. The good news is one of the guard towers is right outside our gate and manned 24/7 by a machine gun toting policeman. I think "Ruby" is going to be safe here as we have asked him to keep an eye on her. 

We dumped our matildas on arrival as we were early and went into the old town for a quick look around. A spot of lunch later  and a brief walk around saw us back in our lodgings to shower and settle in before once more heading out for dinner. It looks amazing and we are looking forward to a day strolling around tomorrow. There seems a lot to see and it is of course Dear Old Crispys birthday. There are a few tat shops here to keep her amused and she might be able to spend her birthday money. 

Right now we are back in our little house. There is a wedding going on a few miles away up the hill and the music is booming. It's loud here so must be deafening at the actual venue itself. The owner assures us it's not normal and under Sri Lankan law must cease at 10pm. It's now nearly 11pm so we will see. If not I'll ask the guy with the machine gun if he has a rocket launcher tucked away in his little tower we can borrow. Crispy needs her beauty sleep. 

In the resteraunt we met another English couple who had travelled here from Thailand. It seems the weather has been hit and miss all over SE Asia these past few weeks. It's not bad but a little cloudy with occasional downpours and tropical thunder storms. Secretly we are glad it's not just Sri Lanka that has got the unsettled weather.

Filming the new Sri Lankan " Blockbuster" in Galle as we arrived. Crispy has some better photos but she's now fast asleep. I'll put them on tomorrow

Lady Crispy in "Ruby"

Admiring the view At a roadside stop.

(23:15 the music has stopped)
 

Bare and Crispy signing off, Galle, Sri Lanka