Shukran

 Well that's it for this little trip. Marrakech has been amazing. It exceeded all of our expectations and is definitely a place we will remember fondly. Our time here has been a mix of new experiences and relaxing in equal measure. The weather has been perfect with daytime averages in the high 20's. A great way to ready ourselves for the fast approaching winter. 

It is a great short haul destination for a cheeky getaway as the weather in Blighty deteriorates.  Crispy has loved it. From the chaos of the soukes to the tranquility of the mountains we have loved it all.. The people have been nothing but friendly, welcoming and helpful. Nothing like Egypt or Tunisia. It's definitely a place we would like to come back to. Possibly to mooch further south next time into the western Sahara. It's only a train ride from Marrakech.

Its an early start to the airport tomorrow so an early night is on the cards.

Bare and Crispy signing off, Marrakech, Morrocco.

My beautiful balloon

 Today has been the hot air balloon trip. It's another thing to tick off our "to do" list. Originally we both had a bucket list but we completed that year's ago. The only exception from our original list still outstanding  is our American oddesy which, God willing, will be next August. 

Now we keep adding to our "to do" list as the  opportunity arises. There's lots
of things out there on this amazing planet that we must do but we just don't know about them yet.

 The balloon ride experience is a full morning which includes a breakfast Inside a "tent" in the desert.

We were picked up at 07.30 from near our riad . We could have chosen the 06.30 pick up which would have seen us airborne to watch the sunrise over the desert. It's the same price but neither of us relished the thought of being up at 5am.  In retrospect it may have been the better option as we spent around an hour chasing our balloon in the van so as we could board it once it landed. It wasn't a trauma and we were given breakfast.  The minibus driver does not know where and when the balloon will land. It depends on wind direction and the skill of the captain. There's no steering wheel or breaks on a hot air balloon. So in essence it goes where the wind blows. It must be a logistical nightmare but the operators have got it down to a fine art.

Eventually we saw our balloon lying on it's side in the desert and quickly caught up with it. The captain was a lovely young lady who told us that she was the first female pilot in Morrocco. She has been piloting balloons here for 16 years. 

(I know it's wrong of me but I must admit that I  felt relieved,  on seeing a lady captain , that balloons don't have a reverse gear or need to parallel park. Don't tell Crispy I said that!.)

The balloons are big. They need to be as the basket easily accommodates 12 people. It's a tight fit but not overcrowded or uncomfortable. Climbing in is a different matter. There are holes in the basket to enable you to climb in. To gym fit Crispy it was a doddle. She virtually vaulted into the basket unaided. I, to my shame, had to have my leg manhandled over the edge of the  basket rim by one of the ground crew as I got stuck.  That's the trouble with getting older. In my mind I'm still 18 but in reality the years are taking their toll. 

Still it was worth it. After a very quick safety briefing that basically said its a balloon filled with hot air and if it goes pear shaped we are just a temporary stain on the desert sand, we took off. 

It was surprisingly smooth. The Captain opened up the burners and the balloon silently lifted into the azure blue skies.

It was beautiful. The ground slowly dropped away below us as we gracefully rose to our cruising altitude of 1000 feet. I dont know how else to explain it. It genuinely felt to me that the basket remained stationary and it was the planet that moved away from us.    It was a fantastic experience and one that we recommend without reservation. 

The actual flight was only around 40 minutes but it felt longer and was worth any amount of money for the experience. We both loved it.

After the flight we returned to the tent for more refreshments before the return journey to our Riad.  The remainder of the afternoon was down time on the roof of the Riad sunbathing and relaxing. This little break is probably the last before our travelling to Sri Lanka in january. Crispy wanted to top up her tan and "get some rays" before our return to old Blighty in a couple of days. 

 After dinner in the backstreets of the Medina we enjoyed the evening back on the roof of our accomodation in the company of some fellow travellers from Minesotta in the US of A. They like us are using their retirement to see as much of this amazing planet while we can. We drank the duty free we had bought at the airport and shared tales of of our adventures past and yet to come. It was a great end to yet another great day. 

Bare and Crispy signing off, Marrakech, Morrocco

Camels and mountains

I have had this little excursion planned since originally booking the flights to Marrakech. 5 nights would be a long time to spend within the confines of the Medina so I needed a few distractions to prevent dear old Crispy from getting bored and fractious. Plus the fact that she is now a certified "gym bunny"  I needed to ensure some physical exercise was included in the trip. 

The high Atlas mountains have always been of interest to us. A geographical  border separating the Agafay stone desert of Morrocco from the plains of Algeria. Mount Toubkal is the highest mountain in north Africa and lies within the high Atlas range. It is not exceedingly difficult to climb but requires time which we don't have on this trip but i thought it would be nice to at least see it. The chance of a hike in the high Atlas was a perfect opportunity to do just this.

We left the Riad at 8am and made our way to the pick up point a few minutes walk away. The alleyways where our Riad is situated are unsuitable for vehicles so we had to make our way to the closest main road. On time the minibus arrived and we set off into the desert.  There are two deserts in Morrocco. The Stone Agafay in the north and the Sandy Sahara in the south. 

We left Marrakech and travelled through the suburbs past the major hotel complexes outside the old city  and soon struck out into the desert. 

Included in this excursion was a morning camel ride. We have rode camels before and were not to enthralled at the prospect of doing it again. Camels as a rule are big smelly and usually bad tempered. They are in no way a comfortable mode of transport. However it turned out to be great fun. It was lighthearted and made as interactive as possible. The Camel caravan station was on a high plataeu which afforded great views of the Atlas range in the distance. Once at the station we were requested to dress up as Berber nomads. Cheap imitation gowns and headscarves were the obligatory costumes.. Everyone entered into the spirit of the experience and played along.  It was totally ridiculous but if you go along with it it's a lighthearted fun experience. We lost our self consciousness years ago and life has been better since we did. I think we looked quite dashing but I'll let you decide

The camel ride was a short 30 minute trek around the flat plateau with fantastic views over the distant mountains and endless desert. The camels were surprisingly well behaved compared to the last time we rode them. The most difficult part is getting on and off. The thing drops to its front knees without much warning and it takes a determined effort not to be thrown forward but Crispy managed it without faceplanting the floor. She's a natural.

After the Camel ride we were again herded back to the mini van. There are only 12 people on this excursion (4 french but we will ignore that small inconvenience) including us so it's nice and sedate. An hours drive from the desert into the mountains saw us arrive at the village of Imlil. This is a popular village for trekking and is the start point of any "expedition" to the summit of Mt. Toubkal. We were only doing a circular trek through the small adjacent villages and gorges. It was spectacularly beautiful over stony hills and verdant green valleys. A total distance of around 10 k but varied and all under the gaze of majestic Toubkal. It was nothing like I imagined it to be and in some instances reminded me of the mountain villages of Nepal and Tibet. Obviously minus the prayer flags and Buddah.

During the camel ride we had got chatting to a young couple from Australia and they became our hiking buddy's. It was truly a spectacular day. It culminated with a great meal in a local mountain resteraunt. 

After the meal we were taken back to our Riad and got home around 7pm. A full day with great company and a very knowledgable young guide. Thank you Mustafa you were brilliant.

It must count as one of the most enjoyable things we have done and Crispy loved it.

I don't apologise for the amount of photos. Hopefully it will tempt you to give it ago if you every find yourselves at a loose end in Marrakech.

I found Crispy a couple of hours casual work to boost the budget. Every little helps

Bare and Crispy signing off, Marrakech, Morrocco

Around the Souke

 I think my perception of North Africa has been unkind. Either that or Morrocco is completely different to Tunisia in its culture.

Today has, on the whole been a lazy day. We got up at a decent hour with very little hurkle durkling. Took breakfast on the roof terrace before setting out into the presumed chaos of the Medina and soukes. It was busy with tourists but not uncomfortably so. There were no huge crowds and no problems strolling through the narrow streets. 

It's an amazing place. Street after street of shops  and alleyways full of stalls selling the usual tourist goods. It works on specific areas. For example a street or collection of alleys selling Leather goods. Another selling lamps. Yet more specialising in metal wok or spices. It's vibrant, exciting and colourful  but feels safe and sedate. The people are very friendly and welcoming. There was not a single aggressive camel seller anywhere in sight. At least not that we found. There was no hard sell and it was a pleasure to stroll around the narrow soukes enjoying the sights and sounds. We never buy anything as the years of acquiring souveniers are well past. Besides our meagre matildas aren't big enough to accommodate any additional items other than what we have brought as essentials. We were given a small cedarwood ornament that we watched a craftsman make using a hand turned foot laithe. He explained and demonstrated the process and did not even hint at payment, which was very nice.  We shall treasure it as a gift.

Crispy insisted I get a haircut and shave at a little side street barbers. I have got lazy in my appearance since retiring and she put her foot down. I must admit that I do like a cut throat shave and have one when the chance occurs. It takes ages and plays havoc with my short attention span but it feels amazing once done. 

After a few hours we left the Soukes and found a roof top restaurant for lunch and a cheeky drink. Alcohol is not readily available here due to the government not being keen on it's general sale. As such it is taxed exorbitantly and is expensive. Although we dont mind the odd tipple we aren't huge drinkers so this is not an issue for us but I don't think Marrakech is going to be the stag party capital anytime soon. 

We returned to our Riad oasis around 5ish to shower and relax on the roof before heading out for dinner. 

Tomorrow I have arranged a day's trekking in the high Atlas mountains. I'm not sure what it will entail but I know we get to an altitude of 6000 feet. I think this will be the highest Crispy has ever been with her feet still connected to the planet. The highest altitude I have climbed to is the Annapurna sanctuary at an elevation of 13000 feet but that was many years ago in the Himalaya.  Whatever the day holds It will be nice to see some of the country outside of the Medina. 

Crispy is excited and no doubt dreaming of the adventure to come. 

 

The riad 

That was a close shave!

The soukes

Bathtime

Bare and Crispy signing off. The Riad Fatinat, Marrakech, Morrocco 

The Marrakech Express

 Well we are here. Just another cheeky little trip to hide from the horrendous weather at Crispy HQ. This is all the better as it's a complete freebie courtesy of easy jet. When we were given the £700 pound compensation for our four hour delay to Corfu I booked this trip whilst still on the beach. Result. As Crispy loves a freebie.

Marrakech has been on the radar for years as a must see location. It's not the usual destination type for our trips as I subconsciously avoid anything North Africa related.  We visited Tunisia when the kids were small and although the place is amazing it was tainted by the constant hassle of the locals. Having two small children with us it became exhausting just to walk down the street. Not that it was unsafe or the attention unnerving but involved constant conversations regarding tourist tat. 

 SHOPKEEPER "You want a stuffed camel, very nice" 

ME "No thanks I'm good for camels" 

SHOPKEEPER "It's a nice Camel, Very good price"

ME "No Thanks. It's lovely but I don't want a camel"

SHOPKEEPER " Tell me your price"

ME " I really don't want or need a 3 foot straw Camel"

SHOPKEEPER  " Whats the matter with the camel, Hold it, it's the best Camel, Give me 300"

ME "No Thanks. Theres nothing the matter with it but I really don't want it. I wouldn't want it if it was free"

SHOPKEEPER  " OK. Buy a carpet"

After an hour of involuntary bartering over a straw camel I dont want we move off and are immediately accosted by the guy from the shop next door, who had just witnessed the previous conversation, who says with a smile " You want a stuffed camel?"

It Was relentless and I am ready for the same this time. However it will be worth it to experience this ancient city.

Anyhow I digress. We are here after a great flight and a taxing 2 hours in Marrakech airport queuing to get through passport control. There were hundreds of people from every possible origin who by some logistical magic all arrived together and had to simultaneously go through the very slow security checks. It's the longest we have ever taken to exit an airport. Goodness knows what it will be like when we return to catch our return flight.  But we are here.

 The prebooked  taxi was waiting and drove us from the airport through the now dark and tiny backstreets of the old medina to the area of our Riad. Most of the streets in the old town are too small for cars so he pulled up outside a dimly lit alleyway and said " Down there. Go right". It didnt look the most salubrious location but Crispy as always  steeled herself and set off into the dark  labyrinth of the old town. We have stayed in areas like this before, Hanoi comes to mind, and it's never as daunting as it first appears.

 True to his word our Riad was there and it is amazing. From the outside it looks like a squat but once inside it is beautiful.  It's like something out of the Arabian nights. Fantastic. I'll put some pics on when I can. Crispy loves it and is happy.

It was late and very dark here when we arrived so after our obligatory mint tea welcome from Hassan we retraced our steps up the alley and found a little cafe still open. We enjoyed a Falafel and fruit juice supper before heading back to crash and a good night's sleep. I have lots of things planned for our time here and we are really excited and looking forward to the adventure. I'm determined not to buy a camel...

She's a spoilt old bird. Supper on the streets

The entrance to our alley

The street leading to our Riad. IT Looks a lot brighter in the photo. Usually if it looks a little scary I tell her it's "authentic" and that usually settles her

Bare and Crispy signing off, the back streets of the Medina, Marrakech, Morroco 

Yamas

This is not my usual "travel" blob as it is just a cheeky break away from the terrible summer we've been having  in old Blighty. I write it for no one other than me and Crispy as an aid memoir as we descend into our dotage. If anyone else wishes to read it then thats fine by us.

We have been lucky enough to travel to many places on this amazing planet of ours and memories fade. Things are forgotten. We were talking over dinner about the fascinating places we have seen and some of them the details  have been lost to us. Not our peregrinations or travels but the short breaks and holidays.  Hence I shall record them all, travels or not, from now on.

 This wasn't a planned break but the summer in old Blighty has been terrible. I needed some sun on my bones and Dear Old Crispy agreed that a warmer climb would do us both the world of good. After a quick perusal of the interweb cheap flights to the sun kissed island of Corfu were found and booked within the hour.

11 nights in Greece, perfect as we both love Greece.. We have visited Corfu in the past and really like this busy and popular island. It's a big island as Greek islands go but holds lots of hidden treasure away from the popular and touristy Kavos and Faliraki type resorts. 

We were here 2 years ago on our peregrinations from Montenegro to Athens but that time we didn't actually leave the ferry port but used Corfu as an easy way to travel from Sarander in Albania to Igoumenitsa on the Greek mainland (the alternative was a difficult and circuitous land border deep in the mountains).

I did a little research for a place to stay that suited our needs and settled on Agios Gordios. A small resort on the south West coast almost directly opposite to Corfu town.

The flights from Manchester were uneventful other than a 4 hour delay because there was a problem with the planes cabin pressure computer. Good old Easy Jet quickly found an alternative aircraft and although delayed we eventually arrived in Corfu non the worse for wear.

 The accommodation I chose  is private and secluded. Perched on the steep hillside above the gorgeous little seaside town of Agios Gordios. A very steep 2km hike from the beach. I thought Crispy would grumble at the walk home from the beach but she loves it. Since she completed the Camino she has joined a gym and is now even more keen than I to exercise and keep the old bones  moving. She's a star and looks amazing for her efforts. 

The short time here has been amazing. Lazy days, beach time, snorkelling and of course a quad bike.  I think the thing that makes our Greek or Turkish holidays special is the opportunity to use a quad. The rules here in Greece, like everywhere, are tightening and helmets are now compulsory on motorcycles and atv's. We, being good law abiding people wore our helmets as the law demands (but only on the main roads and not on the small rural roads that criss cross the island. Its too hot and spoils the fun). We spent most of our time on the smaller roads,  where there are unlikely to be police,  searching out the quieter beaches and villages. 

I  can honestly say after a fairly comprehensive exploration of the island, that the nicest beach and best snorkelling was where we were staying at Agios Gordios. Soft clean sand, crystal clear water and lots of marine life below the waves. Crispy is an excellent snorkeller now and readily follows me into the rocks and sea caves. I am so pleased for her as a whole new amazing world lies below the surface of the water. Greece is by no means Thailand or Malaysia in respect of marine life but it is still incredibly beautiful. Plus the fact that nothing in the Mediterranean wants to bite or eat you which is always a bonus. Crispy isn't too Keen on anything that wants to bite. Sting or eat you.

As a footnote the delay at Manchester has resulted in a £700 compensation payment from Easy Jet. Not bad for a flight that only cost £39. As such whilst we were on the beach I have booked a cheeky few nights in October to Marrakech, Morocco. A place we have wanted to visit for a long time but have never got round to. It seemed silly not to and we are looking forward to it.

 

Bare and Crispy signing off, Agios Gordios, Corfu, Greece.