Home again

 It’s the last day of our little Malaysian adventure. Considering this trip was a rushed alternative to India it has been fantastic. We have managed to see parts of Malaysia we have not seen before and return to some we love and know well. It has been great to see people we know and make some new friends on the way. Thus far there has been no hiccups and the travel has been relaxed and smooth. There are never highlights or favourite places as every place, given half a chance and an open mind, can be amazing. Johor was different and a great kicking off spot into Malaysia. Mallacca was interesting and really good fun. Port Dickson allowed us to chill in the water chalets and Pangkor was as ever beautiful and unspoilt. We have really enjoyed our time in Ipoh and it has made us even more determined to return to Malaysia at some point in the future to explore more of the Cameron Highlands. Kuala Lumpur has been exciting, a real treat to visit and is a fantastic city to “mooch” around. When I plan the Borneo and Sumatra trip we will definitely spend a little more time here as an alternative to Singapore.

Today was chilled and relaxed. We woke at our leisure and walked through Downtown KL to see the Petronas towers close up. They are spectacular but we decided against going up them as the ticket price seemed a little exorbitant at nearly 20 pounds per person. Instead we found a nice little bar adjacent to them and had a cheeky tipple. We don’t drink as a rule when travelling over a prolonged period and very rarely indulge in an afternoon tipple. Not only is alcohol expensive but it would probably result in chronic liver disease and lengthy stays in a rehabilitation unit. The odd beer is acceptable but to drink every day for five or six weeks would see us spending our time in a double room in a detox centre somewhere rather than a hotel in Asia.

We met a couple of other travellers and shared our stories of places to go and things to see. It was a very pleasant hour. After the towers we had a look around the botanic gardens and a butterfly sanctuary. Parks and gardens are always a welcome retreat from the chaos of Asian cities and they are always comfortable, cool and foremost free. It was very civilised. They are not parks as we think of them in the Uk but patches of jungle or native rain forest with well maintained paths and usually teeming with wildlife. Crispy is not a fan of “wild” jungle so these places feel natural but without things that want to bite or eat you. There’s no tigers roaming free in a park. Well not as we have seen.

From the park we made our way back to Chinatown. As we approached we noticed a lot of streets were being closed off by the police. On further enquiry we found out that tonight is the start of the big Hindu celebrations that we saw being arranged and prepared for at the caves.  It seems that the god worshipped at the caves is a guy called Marugan, the god of war. His wife Devasana lives in a temple in Chinatown. At this festival a statue of Devastana is pulled in an ornate chariot to be with her husband for one night only. It seems tonight is the night for lucky old Marugan and the roads were closed to allow the passage of the chariot. After one full day she is returned to her temple till the following year. We went to the temple to watch the preparations. Hundreds of pilgrims lined the streets in readiness for the festival. The chariot was lit up in all its glory waiting for the goddess to be placed aboard by a fork lift truck, bands and dancers lined the roads. A real party atmosphere filled the town and temples as hundreds of people gathered to witness the spectacle. I don’t know how long it would take to drag the goddess to meet her consort but the same distance yesterday took us forty minutes on a train. We decided to politely wave her off rather than follow her on her journey. We just hope Marugan has had his vitamin C as we don’t want poor Devastana disappointed after all the trouble people have gone to.

Tomorrow we fly back to Crispy HQ via Abu Dhabi. I thought it was via Doha but on checking the tickets it’s definitely Abu Dhabi. We should, the gods and goddesses willing, be back in good old Blighty on Sunday morning. We are never sad to leave when our time has run its course as it means we can begin planning our next adventure. Crispy is already settling down and imagining our next adventures in the dark jungles of Borneo and Sumatra.

Once more as another amazing adventure ends I finish by saying what a lucky guy I am to have the opportunity to see these fantastic places with Dear old Crispy. She’s amazing, my bestie and I love her to bits.

Bare and Crispy signing off for the time being, KL Malaysia

We’re all going to the zoo

 There are fireworks bursting outside our window. It’s unusual to see fireworks from above but being on the 19th floor we are higher than them when they explode. I tried to take some pictures but my phone was no use. 

We have had another amazing day. After breakfast in the Sheraton, get us, we set off on our adventures. We have stayed in KL previously but it was a single night en route to the north of Malaysia and Penang and It certainly wasn’t in a place like the Sheraton. As I recall it was a windowless backpackers on the other side of Chinatown down a side street near the bus station. It was cheap, quiet and clean and served our needs on that occasion. As we were only passing through on that occasion we didn’t get chance to explore the city and that’s what we are taking the opportunity to do now. We set off early and made our way to Pasar Sani metro terminus. It’s the first time we have used the KL metro and not surprisingly it is completely different to the Singapore system. It operates from electronic ticketing machines that only accept cash and after providing the route details issues you with a plastic token. A small red plastic coin that allows you to enter and exit the metro at your chosen destination. It took some getting used to but after a short time we were zipping about like locals on a big shop day. 

The first stop was the Malaysian National Zoo. We have not been to a zoo since the kids were small but this one is special as it is playing a huge role in the conservation of tigers, orang-utan and pandas.

As a footnote as we were leaving Ipoh I was reading the local news on the eye pod and it said some tigers had been spotted close to the town and was advising people to contact the police if any where sighted close to the suburbs. It also advised the locals not to let their children play in the forests as there was a chance they could be eaten. The matter of fact way of reporting this situation made me chuckle. There is nothing other than a stray dog that wants to bite or eat you in the UK whereas In south east Asia there are lots of things that think of you as nothing more than a light snack or lunch.

The Zoo was fun and interesting and the new Panda conservation building was a pleasure to see. The Pandas have better accommodation than Crispy.

After the Zoo we made our way to the Batu caves. A collection of cave temples built within limestone cliffs on the outskirts of the city. The temples were busy and preparing for a big festival this weekend which is probably the reason for the fireworks below our window. We will miss the festivities as they are happening on Sunday and we will be on our way to Doha en-route to the hovel at Crispy HQ. It’s a shame as it looks like it’s going to be a crazy affair. Crispy was refused entry to the main temple as she was wearing shorts. The lady at the entrance tried to flog her a small piece of cheap cloth to wear as a sarong but Dear old Crispy was having non of it and dragged me back onto the local market to buy herself a sari for the same price. Three pounds Sterling saw her dressed as like a high caste Indian lady and she was congratulated, stopped and praised by dozens of other local ladies as she swept past the temple guardian with a smug smile and into the temple. 

The temples were amazing and we spent a long time watching the religious ceremonies inside. I spoke to a young priest and he informed me it takes a minimum of twelve years training to be a temple priest. After all the years we have travelled and all the temples we have visited Hinduism is still a mystery to me. The priest reassured me and said after all his years training it is still a mystery to him so it made me feel a little better.

Before we knew it the day was growing old and we were forced to leave for the one hour journey back to KL Sentral. It was rush hour and the metro was at capacity but with Crispy’s amazing queue jumping skills we never missed a beat. A quick beer before showering, we were both very hot and sweaty,  saw us back in Chinatown for tea, salted egg squid and Beccan rice in a little food court on the market. It was delicious. 

Tomorrow is more sedate as it’s our last day, I’m sure I’ll find something to fill the day and stop Crispy getting bored and fractious.   I’ve got a few ideas in mind.

Bare and Crispy signing off, KL, Malaysia

KL. that’s Kuala Lumpur, dont ya know

 After our initial impression of Ipoh on arriving two days ago I can say that we have done a complete 180 in our opinion. We have Loved it here with a capital L. In fact We wish we had more time to spend and venture further out into the Cameron Highlands. The landscape is amazing. We were talking over dinner last night about our possible next adventuring destination. We have decided on touring Borneo, Java, Sumatra and Sarawak. These places have long been on our radar and sound fantastical with tales of cannibals and headhunters. Not to mention Orangutan. All four places are easily accessible from Kuala Lumpur and Klang by ferry or light aircraft. When I plan this trip I will definitely set a week or so aside to return to Ipoh as a kick off point  before venturing deep into the highlands and plantations. We are excited already.

Any how the time had come to move on towards our inevitable return to Crispy HQ at the hovel. This morning we caught the bus south back to KL, as I shall now refer to it, for three nights in readiness for our homeward flights. Crispy has had a marvellous time here in Malaysia and has been a good old Bird in putting up with me. As another special treat I have really pushed the boat out and we are staying at the Four Points Sheraton. A deluxe room on the 19th floor over looking KL with a direct view of the Petronas towers. She was made up with it but I will have to be very careful or she’s going to get spoilt for our next adventure. We turned up in travelling sorts, sweaty t shirts and our little backpacks. The concierge in the ground floor lobby approached us to enquire if we were lost as we did look a little bedraggled and out of place amid the finery. I put on my best posh voice and said “Good morrow my fine fellow, we have a reservation so would you be kind enough to direct us to the reception”. He cautiously showed us to the lift and kept a wary eye on us as the lift doors slid shut. At the reception the young lady behind the desk booked us in smartly and informed us that she had given us a room upgrade. She must have took pity on two weary travellers and wanted us out of reception as quickly as possible as we were lowering the tone of the place. 

After dumping the bags we set out to find somewhere local to eat. The Sheraton is right on the edge of Chinatown and within easy walking distance of the markets and restaurants. We decided on the food court within the old wet market. We prefer this type of eating as it’s free and easy, cheap and we have never been disappointed. After a quick stroll around the markets we headed back to our lodgings to chill and settle. I have a busy itinerary planned for our two full days here so it’s an early night for us. 

The room is first class and as mentioned before has a huge full wall picture window overlooking KL. It’s late now and the city has transformed into a sea of lights with the twin towers of the Petronas building lit up like beacons. Crispy is comfy on the posh bed gazing in awe at the city scape before us and farting like a cavalry trooper in a charge. The Spicy food we had eaten was obviously working it’s magic on her temperamental digestion. 

Bare and Crispy signing off KL, Malaysia