Goodbye, farewell, auf widersein, and all that

Well the time has come as come it must. We have found out that our flight from Dubrovnik is not cancelled due to " the French". We are both pleased that our travel plans have not been interrupted but at the same time a little miffed as it would have justified us travelling further for another week. We were both up for Montenegro and a flight home from either Thesaloniki or Corfu. Ah well, theres always next time.

This trip has been amazing in every sense. There have been no problems with transport, no delays, no border problems. We have had excellent weather all the way through. The only rain we have seen, other than last night, has been next to nothing and not once have we got wet.
The accomodation has been first class. On reflection even our stay in Stallag 13 was ok. It did what we needed it to do. Everyone has been amazingly helpful and very friendly. And of course dear old Crispy. She has been superb and together we make a brilliant team. I could not envisage travelling without her. Crispy I love you.........

We started Saltzburg, went through Vienna to Graz. Crosssed into Croatia to visit its Capital. Left Zagreb and travelled over the border to Slovenia, Ljubljana. From there via Italy to the top of the Dalmation coast and have now finished at the bottom of said coast.
To anyone proposing to try this trip, our advice would be DO IT, its brill.

Next time we plan to start here in Dubrovnik and carry on south through Montenegro, Bosnia, Albania and eventually Greece to spend a few weeks island hoping. Crispy cant wait.....

We are now in the airport awaiting to board our flight. The damned Frenchies have stuck there finger in because we are delayed 20 minutes.
Have I mentioned I dont like the french.

Bare and Crispy signing off for the final time
Dubrovnik, Croatia..............end

There be pirates......

Ooohh  arrrrhhhh!. Dont panic it will make sense later.

Today was the last full day of our little European adventure. It has been amazing from start to finish. We have seen some amazing things and had a few exciting adventures. From the spectacle of the Austrian alps to the rocky shores and battlements of Dubrovnik it has been a wonderful experience. We both agree that this has been our favourite adventure to date outside of India. Although we really, really liked our Italy adventure as well. Its easier to say that everywhere we have ever  travelled has been amazing. We have never been anywhere we didn't like. Possibly with the exception of Rhyll.

Today we had a very lazy day. We managed to find Crispy a beach so she has had her first day on a real sunlounger on a real beach. It came at a cost but she is worth it. This evening we treated ourselves to a sunset dinner cruise aboard a reproduction galleon.
Its called the Karaka if you fancy a look at its web page.
The weather wasn't brilliant this evening as a thunderstorm was brewing but we managed to stay dry whilst we were on the boat.  Once off the boat and waiting for the bus the heavens opened. It was a storm of biblical proportions. Even in Asia during the monsoons we have not seen it rain so hard. This was rain with attitude and within minutes the streets were flooded.
We are safe and dry back in our room and have just recieved word that our flight may be cancelled due to industrial action by the French.
The bloody French. I mentioned in an earlier post that I dont like the French and now feel justified in that opinion.  We may be going to Montenegro after all, hey well what will be will be.

Bare and Crispy signing off for the last time, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Pics for the last posts

Heres some pics, hope it works

Winters coming

Up early and a fifteen minute stroll to the old town. Our apartment is on a very steep hill overlooking the fortified old town. In Austria they call them stadt, in Croatia its a Grad. When we first arrived we walked from the port to the lodging and it involved more than 500 very steep steps through little back alleyways and ginnels. We were knackered and poor old Crispy was not amused. There was very nearly another Crisy strop but she steeled herself before it bubbled over into a full blown tantrum. We only got to the pupil dilation and quiet stage before we reached the summit and found our apartment.
A quick shot of alcohol quickly dissipated the trauma and a crisis was averted.
Crispy is doing incredibly well with her mastery of the different languages. We are now up to two words Danke and Hvalla.
Both mean thanks and she uses them for every situation regardless of context.
The only thing that alters is the volume and facial expression.

Dubrovnik is incredible.  Truly amazing. Crispy has fallen head over heels in love with it. The old town fortifications are mind blowing and the city must definitely be on everyones bucket list. None of my photos could do the place justice so just google it guys. Its worth it. Today I am reliably informed is national "selfie day" so ill get crispy to post some pics as me and the eyepod have once more fallen out. I think its about time to go our seperate ways but we have been travelling together a long time and Im loathe to say goodbye.

Dubrovnik is busy. Mad busy. Not only have you the regular stream of tourist and backpackers but since the hit show Game of thrones was filmed here there are hords of "thronies" milling about.
At every turn there is a tour group drooling over still shots of the show whilst a guide describes the various fictitious events that happened here.
I even overheard one American tosser ask in all seriousness for  the directions to the dragon pit. Come on guys. Stay real...

Dubrovnik is not only busy it is expensive. Expensive with a capital E.
The average beer will cost in excess of six pounds sterling. Thus two drinks is upwards of twelve pounds. Being resilient and imaginative we have found a way around this. There are two options.
1. Buy two drinks from a bar and sit on a cushion on the steps of a small side street. (Most streets are not wide enoughbto accomodate tables) Or
2. Buy two of the same drinks from the supermarkets next door for two pounds and sit on the same steps minus cushion and glass.
Its a no brainer and the bar owners dont like it one jot.
When we first got here there was only Crispy and me doing this. Word has spread and now the city is littered with street people swigging grom bottles and cans. The bar owners are furious and our work here is done.

Today we did the sights. Walked the walls, 3 hours, visited the castles, forts and museums. Another 3 hours. Crispy was in her element. It was easily in the high 30's today but as long as she had her white lightning she was fine.  I just kept finding a shady corner for her. We stopped at one such shady spot halfway around the city walls. The jealous looks on the sweat soaked faces of the passing crowds was pitiful. They were dehydrated and exhausted whilst we drank beer and ate sandwiches on top of a shady castle tower. Perfect.

Down off the walls and out of the city. I had heard tell of a Lazerretti just outside the port. I was intrigued that it might be a commanderie of the knights of St Lazarus. An order of warrior monks who had contracted leprosy whilst on crusade and provided hospitals for fellow sufferers. We went to explore but I could find no information of any value on it. Fortunately it was on the beach so we desisted in our historical pursuits and went for a swim. It was gorgeous and just what the Doctor ordered.

Its dinner time now so.. "Crispy, wheres the credit card...."?

Bare and Crispy signing of Dubrovnik, Croatia

A life on the ocean waves

First things first. The lack of pictures. Well the eyepod seemed to be behaving itself but recently I have tried to use some pictures imported from Crispys eyephone and my antiquated eyepod does not like it. 4 times I have written, saved and tried to publish yestetdays blob and everytime it cocks up. Ive asked Crispy to put the pictures on facetube instead.
I really cannot be faced with doing it again.

Any how yesterday was lovely. It was nice to be back in split. The reason that we decided to stop off here on our way to the final destination of Dubrovnik was to see Diocletians palace which we missed out on last time. Diocletian was a well liked emperor who actually made it to retirement. A rare feat for a Roman emperor. It seems he spent his career persecuting christians and spent his retirement in Split growing cabbages.  He was a keen vegetable grower in his dotage and was a regular winner of the local allotment vegetable competitions.  Crispy loves a nice cabbage so is drawn to dear old Diocletian and was keen to have a look at his rubble.
To be honest it was a tad disappointing.  There is not much to see and it is let down by the amount of information given and lack of imagination in its presentation.
As we entered a large underground cellar within the foundations of the palace a video was starting. We sat down in anticipation expecting to be regailed with reconstructions of the palace in its golden years and amazing CGI. Nothing of the sort. It was some arty farty nonsense by a weird Vietnamese artist and involved two men running around a forest at night with torches ?........ WTF............ utter rubish and nothing to do with dear old Dio or his palace. It was ten minutes of our lives we will never get back.  As a tip if you go to Split don't pay to go into the palace basements. Its not worth it. Instead walk through the underground market next to them. It is the best preserved part and is totally free. Plus you can buy a little figure of a roman god with a great big willy if you feel so inclined.

We had designs on an early night but on the way back to the apartment we came across a Spar. We sat up on the terrace till midnight.  Crispy working her way through three litres of white lightning and me with my two pound bottle of local red wine........

We needed an early night as we had to catch the 7:40 ferry to Dubrovnik.
Despite the not so early night we managed it and are now in Dubrovnik.
Recently renamed Kings Landing after the hit TV show game of thrones.
Tomorrow we plan to explore but for now its off to find a Spar for Crispy.

Bare and Crispy signing off Kings Landing, Westeros (Dubrovnik)

Hold on, its going to get interesting.

We are once more on the move. Crispy was starting to get settled in Krk.
She has already started surging the interweb looking for new curtains and saying things like " that wall would look lovely in cream". Its time to move on.
Today we had to get to Rijeka airport which luckily for us is on Krk island.
Unluckily for us there are no buses that run there from our side of the island. It meant asking the bus driver to drop us off on the main road closest to the terminal and walking the 2 kilometres with our packs. It was hot today and we hadn't gone 50 meters up the road when we started to sweat under the heat of the direct sun. There was no shade and it was all uphill. Crispy was nearing the point of collapse and started saying things"leave me here, save yourself, always remember.....I love you" when an airport worker in a minibus stopped and offered us a lift.
5 minutes and we were outside the terminal building. Its small. Think Barton aerodrome but on a really sunny day. No people, no screaming kids, no package tourists. It is my perfect way to fly. The main waiting area is a big outside terrace complete with bar.
After a few moments the plane arrived and we were  boarding.
Crispy has never flown on a light aircraft before and was looking forward to the experience. I was looking forward to her experiencing turbulence in a itlle aeroplane. She did not disappoint me. Her face was a picture as our little airfix model bumped and bounced its way down the coast.
She loved it. Within one hour we were in Split and had avoided, by the means of powered flight, a full days bus journey. Result.

A short bus ride from the airport had us at the main harbour in the city.
We visited Split last year and spent a few hours here so we know the basic layout of the place. As such it was no real hardship to find our accomodation for the night.

Ohhh. It ain't half hot mum

Well Crispy won the day. Its our last day in Krk before moving off tomorrow for Split further down the Dalmation coast. Its going to get a bit busy again for the next couple of days. Tomorrow we board a 12 seater aeroplane from the island  for a 1 hour flight to split. It was a lot easier than a very long bus journey and no difference in price. Crispy has never been on a light aircraft before and is looking forward to it.
Because we are moving off again in the morning we afforded ourselves another lazy day. The day was spent sitting on a "beach" warching the sun make its daily journey across the heavens. It was very nice and we are both completely chilled as a result of it. After a day doing nothing it was back for a shower and a quick browse of the interweb to make sure Croation airlines hadn't pulled the same stunt as German wings and cancelled the flight at the eleventh hour. They hadn't and we are due to take off 20 minutes earlier than expected.
A quick shower and Crispy again donned a posh frock and we were once again promonading into the old town for Dinner.

We ate at the same restaurant as last night as they seem to be the only one switched onto Crispys special needs. It was a lovely meal and we got chatting to a very nice Dutch couple sat opposite us. We started the conversation in German but they said they prefer to speak English when at all possible.  As my German is only ok it suited me. I mention languages  as it was this subject that brought the conversation around to subject of France and the French. My thoughts on the French are well known within my inner circle. I cannot abide them. It was a comfort to learn that the Dutch feel the same way. We have never, ever met anyone in all our travels that likes or even tolerates the French. There has to be a good reason for that. All the French that we have ever met have only served to strengthen our opinion. Rude, obnoxious and opinionated.
In my opinion we have not been at war with France for 1000 years  for nothing. I personally see no good reason why we should stop now. My Grandad (who was a very wise man) always advocated that we should build a wall around France and flood it. Turn it into something useful like a harbour for the rest of the continent.  I agree.
Crispy would love to visit Paris but I would rather remove my own eyes with a rusty spoon than conceed to this request. I even begrudge flying  through their airspace when going adventuring.
Rant over.....,,..,,,,,,

Tomorrow is a busy day and we are looking forward to going back to Split. Split is gorgeous, so much so that Dioclesian, the roman emperor, built his retirement home there. There should be loads of rubble to entertain dear old  Crispy. We spent a couple of hours there last year so we think we have the "lay of the land" and look forward to having a bit more time to mooch around before catching a boat for Dubrovnik.

Bare and Crispy signing off for the last time, Krk, an island in Croatia.

Back on the bikes.Again..

Last night was very nice. Promonaded dear old Crispy along the harbour innher best frock and a romantic stroll through the narrow streets of the old town. We found a lovely terrace restaurant that was switched onto Crispys "special needs" and she had a great time. Its only the second real, hearty meal she has enjoyed since crunching her way through a pigs knuckle in Saltzburg. Central Europe is many things but gluten aware is not one of them. She has been living on meat, roasted veg and salads. She is half the girl she was and is sure to win slimmer of the month on her next visit to the fat club oncevwevget back to Blighty.

This morning it was a lttle overcast but warm. Very warm. The temperatures were due to reach the mid thirties and by one o-clock they had managed it. Sticky, sweaty and hot (Thats the weather by the way and not Crispy).
We decided to catch a bus and ride south to the only other town of note on the island, Baska. It is the most well known and popular "resort" here.
We got off the bus in a tiny gravel kolvodor (thats croatian for bus station) just outside the town. First impressions were not good and for us it didn't get any better. It reminded us of Llandudno on a wet weekend in May minus the see through pink pacamacs and mobility scooters.  Thats not saying there is anything wrong with Llandudno, or indeed North Wales in general, to each their own. Suffice to say it wasn't the prettiest Adriatc place we have  visited.  Places always look better in the sunshine and it was overcast when we arrived there. Whilst Crispy was grazing on yet another salad the clouds dispersed and the sun broke through.  To our utter amazement it still looked like a run down Victorian seaside town. Baska is not a place we would rush to return to but were sure it  must have its own special charms. The salad was good.
We caught the first bus back to Krk town. Krk town is beautiful. Picturesque harbour. Ancient Francopian castle. Narrow paved streets.
It reminds us so much of two of our favorite  places. Lindos and our secret mainland location who's name  I refuse to disclose in case it becomes popular.  An idilyc escape and a complete contrast to Baska.

The lady at our apartment is wonderful. Nothing is to much trouble and she goes out of her way to help. Last night she said that she had a couple of bicycles we could use for free if we wanted to. Never one to shun an opportunity for exercise Crispy's heart leapt at the opportunity. We decided that once back at Krk we would take ourselves on a little bike ride. The lady pointed out an easy tour and quickly got the bikes. They were brand new, state of the art fat boys ( those of you with a more sedentary lifestyle will have to look this up). They had never been used so the first job was to put air in the tyres as they had lived in a garage since leaving the bike shop. We called in at the local petrol station and reinflated the tyres before setting off on Island route 7. The guide describes the route as "dynamic" and that must obviously translate into
"Bloody hell, youre having a laugh". I dont think I would even attempt this in a Landrover. Poor Crispy looked like a beetroot by the time we reached the first checkpoint.  It was like cycling up Everest on roads composed of very small, deep gravel.  The temperature was now in the mid thirties and it was Crispy's turn to be sticky, sweaty and hot. By the time we reached checkpoint 2 I had to make the call to abandon the endeavour in the name of compassion. Being a trooper Crispy prorested and wanted to soldier on but we had to be sensible and call it a day. The upside was it was all downhill back to the town. The downside was being gravel the bike slipped and slid at every opportunity.  Crispy came down screaming " waaaarrrrggghhhhh" with her legs akimbo like an olympic water skier and her face a picture of abject terror.
She loved it and is eager to try it again tomorrow.

She has put her best frock on again so it must be time for dinner.

Bare and Crispy signing off, still in Krk, Croatia

Where's the beach?

Nothing much to report today other than dear old Crispy is refreshed and revitalised. We had a quick "google" this morning (No, not that kind of google) and did a search for best beach local to krk town. We decided on one just a short walk from our lodging and It was a good choice although beach may be a misinterpretation.  We have yet to come across a beach in the truest sense of the word. None of the beaches here are actual beaches ie. Sand but man made bathing areas consisting of tiered platforms allowing access to the water. They are very nice, comfortable and well appointed with amenities but Thailand they are not. Crispy doesnt seem to mind as she is not a fan of sand. She says it gets in her "bits" and becomes uncomfortable. I on the other hand being devoid of the same "bits" love a clean, sloping sandy beach. The water however could rival any we have seen. Its crystal clear and not a single sign of any of those trillions of waste plastic bottles that spoil so many other places and are killing off our marine relatives.
We had a very lazy day and dont feel guilty in the least.

Tonight we are going to promenade along the harbour and saunter the streets of the old town to find somewhere to eat. Crispy has even put her best frock on so I am going to be the envy of the town.

The Island

Up and sorted by 8am. Backpacks packed and out onto the streets headed once more for the international bus station. Even from here which is relatively small town you can catch a bus for Rome, Frankfurt even Belgrade. Its alien for us as an Island nation to even consider international travel without weeks of planning. Sorting out boats or planes to get us across our greatest historical defence. The sea.
Once on the continent its so easy. Historically that has also been a big problem as armies can move as easy as backpackers and maybe that's why the many small countries here have been constantly "falling out".
Saying that we have been "falling out" with France for a thousand years despite the channel.  We can easily justify this because its France and therefore full of the French and nobody likes the French.

We caught the bus with no problem and were on our way to Rejeka.
This is not a tourist destination but a large working port and large city. I wasn't sure of our connection to Krk from here but was sure there would be no problem. There wasn't.  The connecting bus for the Island was just preparing to depart as we arrived. A quick detour into the ticket office and we were on board and on our way. The long distance buses are all operated by private companies whereas the local buses are run by each individual council. The long distance buses require a ticket from the local office and local buses you can pay on the bus itself. Its a fixed price on local buses regardless of the number of stops you are travelling. in Croatia it seems to be £1 a journey. In Vienna it was mad. It equated to £3 a journey either bus or tram and was not transferable between routes so a journey of a mile may cost upto £12. 

A bus to an island? I sense you wondering. Well its simple there is a road bridge from the mainland.  When we set off from Pula it was unbroken blue sky but as we travelled south the skies darkened and the wind picked up.
The winds were so strong across the sea bridge that all caravans, motorhomes and motorcycles were stopped from crossing. The police had cordoned dozens of them in special parking areas. They must have been there a while because some had set up camp.

Across the bridge and off across the island of krk to its capital which is imaginatively called Krk. I chose this location as its close to a small airport and I was really struggling to find a reasonable route overland by road to our next destination of Split. Road journeys, there are no trains or ferries, take in excess of 12 hours so flying was the only option. Its not an international airport. Its more like a an aerodrome but the plane is only 12 seats and takes less than an hour so perfect for our needs.

We arrived in Krk town and the skies cleared to greet us. The wind has dropped as well. Our accomodation is a ten minute walk from the old walled town and is perfect. Double room, balcony and sea view. One really nice thing about the apartments here is the little niceties they afford. On arrival at every one we have been warmly welcomed and given either beer or wine which is sorely needed after travelling. The people are so friendly and accomodating everywhere we have been.

Krk is small but the purpose of this part of the trip is to kick back and relax. I am sure that we will find some kind of adventuring to do while we are here so Crispy doesn't get bored. I've got sea kayaking in mind but Crispy doesn't know it yet. She's going to be thrilled.

Bare and Crispy signing off, Krk. An island in Croatia

God bless America.

Easy day today and it had been very, very nice. We had nothing to do  and nothing planned that was fixed in stone so the world was our oyster.
We had thoight about going to a national park today to do a little cycling but neither of us could really face it. Its going to be a long day tomorrow as we need to find a bus to Reijeka and from there work out how we are going to get to our next destination. The Island of Krk.
We decided on an easy day and it has been blissful.
We had a saunter around the old town of Pula and took in all the roman sights. I am a keen aficionado of the Roman empire and Crispy loves a good bit of "rubble". We saw everxthing Pula had to offer from its time as a sizeable Roman setlement.
Once we had our fill of antiquity we decided to chance our arm on another bus ride to the beach.  Yesterday I think we had turned our travelling radar off and slipped inadvertently into tourist mode which is what got us into a kerfuffle. Today it is well and truly turned back on.
On my frequent google searches I had found that there was a lovely lttle beach not far from town that was popular with the locals and it sounded perfect for our needs. We steeled ourselves and boarded the bus to the coast.
15 minutes found us in a quiet little area out of the city. It was perfect and After a couple ciders ( it was very, very hot) Crispy decided it was time for a nanny nap. We found a shady spot and slept for an hour dreaming of horizons new.
Once awake we went onto the beach and had a lovely couple of hours lying on the beach and swimming in the adriatic...... perfect after all the rushing about of the past couple of weeks. The next 4 days, once we get there, are on an island so it is nothing but sea and sand until we set off once more.
We caught the bus and set off back to the city. This time the bus ride was uneventful and we got off the bus exactly where we had got on at the arch of the brothers Sergii. If your interested in Roman history google these guys as they are amazing and nearly as amazing as the brothers Grachii who are my favourite. After a while eating out every night can get a lttle tiresome and as we had such a gorgeous terrace at the apartment we decided on a light dinner al frescoe. We called at a lttle supermarket, bought the supplies, and ate outside the room. It was wonderful. I am a keen red wine fan but in the restaurant's it is really expensive. In the supermarket picked up a litre bottle for the equivalent of  two pounds.

### if there are gramatical errors tonight I cant blame the computer###

We had eaten when another guest at the apartments joined us on the patio.
He was a Canadian called Stephen who now lives in Fort Lauderdal and teaches European politics and law at Nova university.
He was interested in Brexit and foolishly asked my opinion on the issue of Britain leaving the European Union. Or as  I corrected him GREAT Britain pulling away from the 4th Reich.
Two hours of political debate ensued and I loved it. After two hours(and half my wine) he agreed  to conceed to my argument and I think we may have a collaborator in the colonies to " spread the word".

Crispy went to bed as soon as the midges started to bite. She's not good with bitey things since her run in with leaches in India.

Busy day tomorrow so it's time for bed..........,

Bare and Crispy signing off Pula, Croatia

Get me off this fecking bus!!!!!!!!!

Well goodbye Porec. Hello Pula.
We had a choice of buses this morning to carry us on our merry way south. Last night we had decided on a mid morning bus to avoid any unnecessary early wake up calls. As it was we were awake st seven so we decided to get to the bus station and grab the nine o-clock bus. It would mean we get more time in Pula and there is a lot to see.
Caught the bus withour a hitch and set off ever southwards.
Its only an hour and a half journey to Pula so it was no hardship and our apartment is only a stones throw from the Roman amphitheatre so it wasn't hard to find. If theres one thing that stands out in a city its a roman ampitheatre.
The accomodation is outstanding. We are in a cellar room with direct access onto a beautiful outdoor terrace. Its all very posh and Crispy is in her element. We are looking forward to quiet glass of Vino after tea in our own little sanctuary.
All of the accomodation has worked out very well and there have been no disappointments. Even our stay in Stallag 13 had its plus points. Well just the location really as the room was poor but it did what we needed it to do.

We are now in Pula. A popular tourist destination for Brits and Germans alike.
It is an ancient place and was once the Roman city of Pola. It comes complete with forum, temples and of course the ampitheatre. I know how much Crispy loves "rubble" so this is going to be a real treat for her.

Today we didn't really get chance to see the city as Crispy wanted a beach and I really fancied a swim in the Adriatic. So shortly after arriving and dropping off the backpacks We caught bus 2a from the city centre to the beaches. Approximately twenty minutes away. There are no real beaches in the city itself  as its a huge harbour so to get to one requires a short trip on the public transport.  Once at the beaches we had a lovely time sitting in the sun and swimming in the crystal blue sea. A quick beer in a beach bar and back on bus 2a for a quick trip back to the city.The intention was dinner and then relax in the sanctuary of our terrace.

It turned out it wasnt quick and it definately wasn't to the city. Now in most places if you catch a particular bus it goes a particular route. If you get on at a particular stop on that route you expect to be able to get off again at said stop on the return journey. Take for example the 575 to Wigan. You know where you are with the 575 to Wigan and it never holds any surprises or dissappionts. Its a bus that does what most buses do and it does it well. In Pula its a lottery. When we boarded the 2a from the beach I asked the driver for two one way tickets to Pula. He looked at me blankly.  "The ampitheatre" I said. Still no light of recognition flickered in his eyes. "The Roman theatre, gladiator, Russel Crowe,"  I continued. Nothing. I tried a different tack." City centre, zentum, marina, harbour". Again nothing. I had noticed that the street that we had got on the bus in the city began with  K but was followed by 36 other letters constucting a word that was completely unpronounceable. I quickly scanned the map of the bus route above his head and could find only one stop starting with a K. I attempted it " kitzobgranbanggranola ....... street". A light came on.
"Ahhhhh" he said with a cheery laugh " Chitzninahgranu"... " Yes, yes. That" I said. I was pleased with myself at my internation communication skills. How wrong I was.
The bus set off and immediately turned away from the city. Crispy and I looked at each other confused. Then the bus headed off up several streets and major roads in the opposite direction to where we should be going. It drove for ages into the middle of no where  before stopping and the driver leaned out of his seat and said to us with a beaming smile "Chitzninahgranu". "No, this isnt it" I corrected him. He shrugged his shoulders and set off once more to god knows where. Crispy and I looked at each other again. We assumed, wrongly, that if we sat tight the bus would eventually pass something we recognised and we would be able to make our escape on foot. Nothing. Eventually the bus stopped at a shopping centre miles out of the city.  The driver again leaned out of his seat and said in a friendly tone "Finished. Next bus 15 minutes". As we were now the only ones on the bus we knew he was talking to us. We got off the bus lost and confused. I tried once again to read the bus timetable fastened to the bus shelter but it was useless. After 15 minutes another bus arrived, this time the 23a. We got on. It was the same driver. He put his head in his hands dismayed and ushered us down the bus. 30 minutes later we were back at the beach where we had started our journey over an hour and a half ago..
He set off again and within 15 minutes we were at the ampitheatre. The doors hadn't finished opening before Crispy was off the bus and me right behind her. We have travelled through 3 countries on every kind of transport without a hitch but the local buses in Pula had us beat.

Out for Dinner and back to the apartment. Our dreams of a quiet night in bigger ruins than the Roman theatre at the end of our garden.

Tomorrow we plan a morning exploring the sights and rubble that the city has to offer. Tomorrow afternoon may be another bus ride to a national park for a spot of cycling and beach time. It depends if we can face the local buses again....

Bare and Crispy signing off Pula, Croatia

Bicycle, bicycle. I want to ride my bicycle.

A great nights sleep and we certainly needed it. Went back into Porec last night after we both had a nanny nap. It did the trick and we felt great.
Had dinner and set off back to the apartment. The plan was to call and get a couple of "smart price" bottles of wine for the room. In Croatia wine is expensive both in the local shops and the supermarkets.  It is crazy really because Croatia borders Italy, Slovenia and the other major wine producing areas of central Europe as well as producing its own, very good, wines. Saying that have you ever tried buying a Bakewell slice in Bakewell. Dont! you need a second mortgage. Plus its shite, the jams the wrong way round. Trust me I know through experience.
All the shops were closed when we left the old town and our plan was foiled. This morning I was stood outside the local Lidl thirty minutes before it opened to secure our cache. I will not be foiled again.
Crispy was still in bed dreaming of adventures to come when I got back with the evenings fruit juice and this mornings breakfast.
After breakfast on our little terrace we set off into town. At first light it was a  little overcast but by the time we arrived at the bike rental shop the sky had ckeared and the temperature was climbing into the mid twenties. We secured the bikes for a discounted price and set off down the coast. I had no real idea where we were headed but worked on the theory that if there was one town on the coast then there must be another. Somewhere.

We cycled for three hours before spotting a church tower above a distant tree line. Crispy by this time was dehydrating and becoming quite fractious. I always know when she is too hot or too cold. Too wet or too dry as she always follows the same pattern. I've seen it on many occasions in mountain, jungle and swamp.
She goes quiet. Her pupils become fixed. The look she gives me changes from one of affection to one of abject hatred. Then the verbal abuse starts. Until she again regains stasis (usually alcohol based liquid)  I suffer a stream of abuse and quiet, evil menacing looks.
Thankfully within a few minutes we had reached the town and a taverna.
One litre of wine and lemonade later and we had again moved from another divorce statistic to mature loving couple. Like I say I know this pattern and never take offence.
After the liquid sustenance we slowly cycled back to Porec. On the way back the sky darkened just as we were passing a German holiday camp. We cycled to the centre of the camp and sat out a 15 minute downpour alongside a group of  sour faced Gernan tourists who were obviously miffed at the abrupt change in the weather. I camoflaged our unauthorised presence by pleasant small talk in Deutsche until the rain passed.  I dont think anyone noticed we were trespassers until the sun came out and we cycled off singing Neil Sedaka's Laughter in the rain.
We backtracked our journey and eventually  cycled through the crowds of the old town narrowly avoiding numerous children and elderly Europeans. Outside a very nice looking restaurant we were accosted by one of the many "front men" whos job it is to encourage passing tourists to eat there.
I explained that we were not tourists but infact travellers and were operating on a strict budget and as such were unable to eat at his establishment. He immediately took pity on us and invited us to sit and have a drink on the house. This turned into several freebies and only stopped when we insisted that we had to go and return the hired bicycles.
He bid us fare well and wished us safe travels. After returning the bikes Crispy had a brainwave that involved us casually calling back at the restaurant and gazing wishfully at the menu. It worked and we were ushered inside. Although we had to pay for the meal itself we were drowned in free drinks and desserts. We must remember this ploy as it worked a treat.

We are now back at the apartment and getting sorted, and imbibbing our cache of well earned Vino, to set off in thd morning for Pula. I think a bus goes at around  eleven am so another lie in is in order.

Porec is gorgeous. A great little adriatic sea side town. Historic, quaint but enough going on to make it a weeks holiday destination. The only thing is that there are no real beaches. All along the sea front there are man made terraces or natural rocks to afford entry to the sea but you dont need a bucket and spade,. They would be an unnecessary expense and a pain in the
arse to fit in the backpack

Bare and Crispy signing off, Porec, Croatia

Oooooohhhhhh, I do like to be beside the sea side.

Porec. Our first stop over en-route down the Dalmation coast towards Dubrovnik. The bus goes early or late in the day with no reasonable timings. We were up at 5:30 with back packs soted and out throuh the waking city to the bus station. Now Crispy in her dotage has become very good friends with her bed. Most elderly people do I'm told and its a struggle at home to rouse her from her slumbers. Early starts are just no good for dear old Crispy but we needed a morning bus to get us on our way without wasting the day. Plus she had not slept well dreaming of mountain lakes and drowning. Most of the night I could feel her swimming up the bed gasping and blubing.
Because we were skipping breakfast the b&b had prepared us a goody back of various gluten and non gluten delicacies to sustain us on our travels. Onto the bus after a minor kerfuffle finding the right one and off to Italy. Italy I hear you ask. Yes Italy.
The bus goes from Ljubljana through Slovenia to Trieste in Italy. Both these countries are part of the union so there are no border checks to go throuh. From Trieste it heads south and into Croatia. Here there is a border and this time we didn't have to disembark. A fresh faced Italian youth in a police uniform boarded the bus. It looked like he had got the uniform as a christmas present because thats what he wanted to do when he grew up.
My grandad used to say " you know your geting older when policemen and doctors are looking younger". If thats the case I feel older.
Passports in order we continued into Croatia.
The accomodation I had found is appartments MIP. It was difficult to find because its in a quiet residential area, but after a short walk we managed to find it. It scores 8.7 on booking.com and the trip advisor reports are just as reassuring. It is in an area of communist era tenements but this one and its neighbours are lovely. The entire block of flats has been tastefully renovated as tourist lets. Its the first time we have had our own private outside space, either balcony or terrace, and it makes a massive difference. We were looking forward to cheeky glass of wine outside the room this evening but the supermarkets close early and we missed out.
There is a Lidl just up the road so first thing tomorrow thats where I'll be whilst Crispy has a lie in.
First impressions of Porec are great. Typical old sea side town full of bars and restaurants. Tomorrow we might hire bicycles to mooch up and down the nearby coast and find a beach for a picnic. It depends on the weather. Today has been blue skies with temps in the mid thirties. Tomorrow, according to the locals, there is the chance of a thunderstorm. I think its going to take a few days to "come down" from the city travelling. We have been on the go constantly for eleven days and although wonderful it is exhausting. We have to slip back a gear now and enjoy a more relaxed approach.
Crispy had done the washing. Now we will have the luxury of clean knickers. A rare treat when travelling.

Bare and Crispy signing off, Porec, Croatia

Man overboard.....!

Ljubljana is amazing. Small, compact and beautiful. Again I had not done much research into what was here apart from a quick google image search. It looked lovely. Although if you google Morecombe it looks like it is a "go to" destination. However we were not dissapointed.
Plus its only two hours and a bit from Zagreb and three hours from the coast. A perfect staging post.
The bed and breakfast is first class and perfectly located. A real find if you happen to stop off here. Its a conveted attic space that now contains ten lovely apartments in the roof of an old apartment building. Its called Atticus for obvious reasons and is perfect for our needs. Yesterday after arriving we strolled around the town and we saw what few sights there were to see. Apart from the castle there are no particular sights of merit but the entire place is gorgeous.  A river runs through the centre and is the main attraction. Bars and cafes line its banks along the city section. I say city but its much more of a town. It is really small and quaint. If a place is as gorgeous as this then you dont really need "sights". Both Crispy and I agree that it reminds us of the back streets of Venice. A place we both hold dear.
Today we had decided to get a bus north into the Slovenian alps to visit
Lake Bled. Everyone I spoke to before commencing this little adventure insisted that we couldn't possibly pass so close to Bled without seeing it. So we saw it.
We caught the ten o-clock bus from the main bus station and arrived at Bled forty minutes later. We are sooooo pleased we went there.
I use the term beautiful a lot to describe the the things we've seen but in respect of Bled I use it in its fullest sense. Breathtakingly beautifully.
Imagine Ambleside in the middle of forested mountains under azure blue skies and your not to far off the mark. Oh, and throw in a fairytale castle and a cathedral on an island. Now you get the picture.
It was spectacular and the temperature was in the low thirties.

We missed out on a boat ride in Konigsee so decided to make up for it here. We hired a row boat for a couple of hours. Me rowing of course while Crispy sat in the stern like a medievsl princess. We (I) rowed out to the cathedral in the lake for a romantic five minutes amidst all of this natural splendor. On arriving at the island I expertly navigated us to the dock. As i was serenely mooring our little boat Princess Crispy lunged for the shore and grabbed a mooring post. "No wait, sit down" I shouted in vain. It was too late. She was stretched between the gunwale and the dock when the laws of physics took over and the boat slipped away, the dock remained stationary and Crispy plunged, breast first, into the crystal blue waters of the lake. SPLOOOOSH. it was all over in a second and I had no time to whip out the eye pod for an action shot. The people on the island who witnessed this spectacle never bat an eye. They looked over disinterested and carried on with their day as if nothing had happened. I suppose they get used to it.
After a few moments I had Crispy back on dry land but she was soaked to the bone. The boat trip was supposedly for an hour but we had to go around the lake three times till she dried out in the brilliant sunshine. The only consolation was that she held up her wet bra and knickers  like a sail to dry in the sun and the wind power assisted my rowing. Perhaps this is how the ancients developed sailing ships. It makes you wonder.....

Back to Ljublijana for a shower and dry clothes. Once refreshed we again hit the streets and hired bicycles for a couple of hours to see the parts of the city we had not yet managed to see. This involved a few bars, of course, for medicinal purposes to avoid poor Crispy catching a chill...

Tonight marks the end of part one of the trip. We have travelled through central Europe and taken in five cities. An amazing trip and I think one of our best to date. Tomorrow at 07:10 we board a bus for Porec at the very top of the Dalmation coast to commence our Croation expedition down to Dubrovnik. Crispy is so excited at the prospect of a few days on the beach. I dont blame her as travelling is exhausting and she has earned a little rest...........

Bare and Crispy signing of, Lubjuljana, Slovenia

Ljubljana, Try sayiing that when you're pi####

We love Zagreb. I know I said this before but it is a great city. Out of all the places on our itinerary this was the one that we had no idea of what to expect. It turned out to be one of the best we have visited.  One thing I forgot to mention last night was that we very nearly had our 15 seconds of fame. I know Andy Warhole said everybody gets15 minutes but we have never been greedy.
We had been told thar the city canon fires over Zagreb at 3pm everyday. Confident in this information we had made our way to the watchtower in the upper town at the alloted time to witness this centuries old spectacle.  Others must have been fed similar
Info as a significant crowd had gathered at the medieval tower. By ten past three everyone realized that we either had been duped or they had finaly ran out of gunpowder.  The crowd slowly dispersed looking somewhat cheated. In retrospect we should have realised we had been told the wrong time because at noon an almighty blast rocked the city and nearly caused poor old Crispy to drop her gluten free ice cream.
We carried on our exploration of the upper town. In a small square over looking the city we stumbled across a large impressive looking film crew. There were lighting vehicles, sound recording rigs, cameramen and expensive looking cars. All the paraphernalia of a blockbuster movie. There was even a mobile canteen unit with an impressive looking buffet. I made my way across and asked "whats going on ?". A lady answered "They are making a film". Wow we thought. "Is it anyone famous ?" I asked.
"Ooh yes" she replied. "Famous in Croatia or world famous ?" I asked. "World famous" she replied. Oh my god We thought.
"Who is it ?" I asked. "Not a fu***** clue" she replied before carrying on with her buffet preparation. It turns out it was Croatia TV recording a weekly TV show about basketball players. Not exactly the scoop we were hoping for. We followed them around for a while trying to get "on camera" but they are obviously switched onto annoying tourists trying to muscle in and completely ignored us. We did see a guy on a scooter turning on the streets gas lights with a big stick though. In retrospect that was probably more interesting.

Onto today.
We left our hotel after breakfast and made our way back to the bus station to catch the ten o-clock bus to Ljbujana. The bus's final destination would be Florence in Italy but we would only be aboard it for two and a half hours until it reached the Capital of Slovenia. We arrived without a problem and soon found the hotel. Ljubjana is tiny so it was no ordeal.
Glorious sunshine as we unpacked and set off into the narrow streets to have a look around. Ill tell more tomorrow but it was uneventful and very pleasant.  Dinner and bed. This is city number 5, on the bounce, and we are getting a tad tired. We are looking forward to the coast and a few lazy beacn days. Crispy is already trying on her bathing cap.

Tomorrow we plan to try and get a bus to Lake Bled. Its supposed to be beautiful. It would be great to see but tomorrow is Sunday and I am not sure if the buses will be running. We hope so.....

Bare and Crispy sjgnjng off... Libjujana, Slovenia

Zagreb.

Ok. Firstly the hotel. The previous post was brief because me and the eye pod had fallen out but I think we are friends again now. As long as it behaves Itself. While we are on the subject I know there are speling (delberate mistake)  and grammatical errors within this blog and I make no apology for them.
Its difficult typing on a tablet at the best of times but when its one as old as  this that doesn't correct typos or highlight a missed finger mistake its very, VERY difficult. It takes around 5 stabs at the screen just to get the flashing indicator cursor thingy exactly where you need it. This coupled with the fact I usually write this in bed is a recipe for grammatical disaster (Ray)

Anyhow, Zagreb

We got into Zagreb at around 7 pm. On time.
The hotel Casa Blanca is approximately 20 minutes walk from the termini just outside the old town. We had difficulty finding it as its tucked neatly in a little grotty courtyard just off the main road. In fact we were having so much difficulty finding it that we asked a passing polce woman if she knew where it was. She looked at the map, looked at the street, shook her head and said " I dont know it but it has to be around here somewhere". At that point she looked up and directly above her on a little marble plaque was inscribed the name of our hotel. We looked at each other embarrassed and she wandered off head down.
The court yard was not inspiring. In the corner was a door with the words
"Casa blanca" etched on the glass. I could feel Crispys heart sinking. We trudged forlornly to the dismal entrance. Crispy had already steeled herself for another night in a cell. On opening the door her heart leapt. It was gorgeous. Brand new, state of the art luxury.  Bar, outside terrace, beautiful decoration. We had hit the jackpot. The room was brilliant. Big bed, gorgeous shower-room, air con, everything. We thought it couldn't get any better. We were wrong. Zagreb was better.

Zagreb was a natural staging post on our route to the coast and I knew nothing of it other than it was old and the capital of Croatia.
Its not a popular destination for tourists but I thought it would be ok for a couple of days. My resolve was not strengthened by talking to one of the local inebriants at the Austrian pub near our hotel in Vienna. "Zagreb, why are you going to Zagreb" he had said. "Its like Glasgow". It did not fill me with hope. In fact I almost changed our itineray. I am so glad I didn't.

Like any other city the suburbs are shite. Tower blocks. Used car dealers, heavy industry etc etc. Zagreb is no different. Its obvious it is in need of a little love and attention. Saying this the old quarter is magnificent and the Croations are investing heavily to make this city a must see destination. Tourism on the coast is well established but visitors to the capital are few and far between. This is a real shame. In my view it equals Prage, Budapest and Krakow as a great city to visit and its cheap.
The buildings, the city walls, the public parks are stunning. Crispy and I have had a great day. Perhaps our best yet. Its so laid back its horizontal and there are loads to see and do to warrant a weekend break here.
We started by walking the "park horseshoe". A U shaped collection of public spaces that border the lower town. I know it sounds boring but its spectacular with loads going on in every area. We watched some guys cutting a huge tree down over a busy city centre highway without stopping the traffic. Crispy asked if we could have the log to help keep us warm in our hovel over the winter but the guy said getting them home in the backpacks might be a problem. He's right. We are only allowed 6kg on our flight backfrom Dubrovnik. Next we sauntered down the lower town and eventually the upper town. Originally Zagreb was two independent cities seperated by a small ditch and they never really saw eye to eye. In fact the small bridge that seperated them was called the "bloody bridge" probably for good reason.
We lost a day wandering around with no problem. A few cheeky beers were involved along the way, obviously.
It has been hot today. In the 30's so we needed the odd liquid refreshment and feel no guilt in our pleasure.

This evening we watched an amazing thunderstorm over the city from the comfort of a small bar. It poured down for around thirty minutes before abruptly stopping. Its the first heavy rain we have seen and hopefuly the last.
Tomorrow we are on the move again. This time to Ljubljana in Slovenia.
The bus leaves at 10 so its an early dart to get to the bus station. Crispy is at the foot of the bed perfecting her swerve technique.

Note to self:  put Zagreb on the favourites list

Bare and Crispy signing off, Zagreb. Croatia

The eye pod is playing up

The bloody computer is messing about Again. I've had another stern talk to it and put it in the corner for an hour so it can think about what its done.  It kept blipping at me but I completely ignored it.
Twice its lost the post for the last day in Graz and the journey to Zagreb. Im fed up of re writing it... plus the post for Ah Vienna has disappeared into the void never to be seen again.
I know technology has moved on and my steam powered device struggles to keep up but come on.........Give me a break

Zageb, Again

No need for an early start today as we dont catch the bus tilll 1600. I think we need to catch it from the train station and its only a 20 minute walk away from the old town.
Last night dear old Crispy spotted a dress she likes. I know she wont settle till she buys it. Shes like a kid with pocket money and once she makes her mind up there is no force in nature that will stop her. So out of the stalag by 9 am, avoiding the guards and alarm systems, and onto the streets of Graz. Homeless to all intent and purpose until we reach zagreb.
The backpacks although they are as light as we can make them are still heavy enough to be a pain in the arse if your carrying them about all day.
Crispy came up with a great idea. We could lock the backpacks in the bag lockers at the armoury we visited yesterday and collect them just before we set off for the bus. Perfect. We made our way there snuck in like ninjas and quickly locked away the bags. We were free to enjoy our remaing time in Graz unhindered safe in the knowledge that our worldly goods were secure.
After an hour or so scouring the back streets of the old town Crispy found her dress. Pocket money spent and Crispy satisfied we set off to the bike rental shop. It had threatened thunder storms today but the sky was blue and the temperature in the high 20's so we were happy to continue with the plan to cycle a small part of the river Mur. We quickly sorted the bikes and set off. We had to have our bags back and the cycles returned by 2pm at the latest to get to the bus terminus and find the correct stand on time.
We cycled south from Graz for a while but it was all industrial landsdapes so we turned tail and headed north. It was beautiful. Excelent cycle paths, green forest and fast flowing river. We chanced upon an authentic Austrian beer garden (well thats what the sign said)  and stopped for lunch. It was excellent. After lunch we cycled back to Graz
Dropped off the bikes and set off up the road for a 20 minute bus ride to the bus station.
The bus arrived on time. It had come from Vienna en-route to Zagreb calling at Graz. As such there were already a few people on board and seats were limited. We are well used to getting on transport abroad and all sense of fair play has to go by the wayside. Non of the usual rules apply and its every man, or woman, for themselves. Crispy is an expert at bus boarding. The doors had barely opened before she used the side swerve technique she has perfected to get to the front of the line. I usually get dragged behind her by her pulling my backpack strap like one of those curly child lead things.
On the bus and away to Croatia. The bus has to pas through Slovenia to get to Zagreb. There should be 2 border crossings to navigate but as Slovenia is part of the EU the border crossing from Austria to Slovenia is unmanned.  It lies forlorn and rusting. The border from Slovenia to Croatia is still very much active as Croatia is still an independent state.
The crossing to Croatia was uneventful and we pased unhindered through passport control. Once back on the bus it was plain sailing all the way to Zagreb.

Off at the main bus station and a short 20 minute walk saw us at our hotel...

Ill say more about this in the next post.

Bare and Crispy signing off, Zagreb, Croatia

Graz ist Schöne

Up early showered and ready for muster and room inspection. The cell was surprisingly quiet and comfortable overnight with no screaming or moaning from the adjacent cells. We noticed that the door was unlocked this morning and managed to creep out of the corridor without being spotted. No cries of "Achtung" greeted us as we sneaked out of the front door. I think as long as we are back before the lights out alarm we should be ok......
We found out last night that the other immates on our corridor had formed an escape commitee and had started tunneling.  We had to be across the border into croatia by tomorrow evening so we are going to try the same escape tactics tomorrow that worked today. Crispy is already hard at work on the fake identity papers and travel passes.
Shes already made civilian clothes from the shower curtains.

It was another beautiful day. The sun was shining and today we were going to do the sights. Graz is only a small city, although it is the second largest city in Austria, and should be easy to get around without resorting to trams. We started by visiting the bicycle rental shop. Tomorrow we travel to Zagreb by bus but it doesn't leave till 1600 so we have another day here and plan to cycle along the river Mur for a picnic.
An interesting fact is that Graz is the most bicycle friendly city in the word. Every street has a dedicated bike lane with their own crossings and even bridges. There are hundreds and hundreds of bicycles here that are used as a regular transport method. It is a great idea that maybe we could learn from although to be fair they do have much better weather than the UK.
After sorting out the bikes we set off up the Schloß burg mountain to visit the castle and clocktower. There are superb views from the top but unfotunately not much evidence of a castle.  A group of british tourists arrived in 1944 by Avro Lancaster and made a bit of a mess of the once beautiful Castle.  On a serious note there were 56 air raids made on Graz by bomber command during the war with significant destruction of property and 1900  people killed. A further 2000 were injured in the attacks. Its madness and makes you realise the futility of war.
After the castle we made our way down the Schloß burg towards the town. Just under the remains of the castle we stumbled across a tunnel entrance and went inside. There were no signs or information boards to tell you what it was. It turned out to be a spectacular series of tunnels built as air raid shelters for the citizens of Graz during the war. A labyrinth of tunnels leading back into the old town. No one was around and Crispy didn't want to go in but I told her we are British and aren't afraid of anything. This immediatly strengthened her resolution and she stiffened her lip and stepped into the darkness. About 500 meters down the tunnels it opened into a cavern containing a state of the art led lit glsss lift. For one euro it would take you up or down the mountain. Crispy wasn't keen on using the lift so we made our way down via a winding metal gantry with poor old Crispy trying her best to squeeze the blood from my fingers.
At the bottom of the lift some of the tunnels had been made into "The fairy tale kingdom". A fairy tale themed ride on an old mining cart. Its nice to see something that was built for such a horrible reason being used for something so innocuous.

Back into the sunshine and a walk through the old town to see the most popular sights. The steigal church, the Dom and mausoleum. The rathouse etc. Then we headed for the market to buy a little something for lunch. Just as we got to the market it started to rain so we called into a little bar for a cheeky beer till the skies cleared. 20 minutes later we were sat in a park having lunch on a park bench in glorious sunshine once more.
After lunch we visited one of the reasons for coming to Graz. The armoury. It is the greatest collection of ancient weapon on the planet. Crispy loves a good poleaxe so was in her element and could barely contain herself. It was very interesting as it described the way the armoury operated as well as describing the collection.
One thing we didn't know was that although the weapons were bought and owned by the city anyone could hire them. A bit like Machinemart but with some real attitude. It seems that if you were having a bit of bother with a neighbour and didn't have your own stock of sharp pointy things you could approach the council to borrow some while you sorted out the problem. For a cost of course. I really like the idea.
If your interested i suggest you either google it or better still visit Graz.

After the armoury we had a wander down the river and found a quiet spot for Crispy to have a nanny nap. She has become quite fond of her afternoon naps of late. It must be her age. She dozed on a bench for 30 minutes like a well dressed bag lady after 3 bottles of white lightning. Blissfully unaware of the cold looks of the locals cycling past.
Once awake her only thought was food so we set off for some Dinner.

We are now back at the Stalag and managed to sneak back in without being seen. Just before the alarm for lights out.
Its Dark now so....

Bare and Crispy signing off from Graz. AUSTRIA